1.30.2010

IWC launches iPhone app

Schaffhausen, January 2010 - The brand-new IWC app is a must-have for all friends and fans of the brand. Free of charge, it can be downloaded with immediate effect from the App Store in any one of six languages. One of its most impressive features is a Try-it function that enables users to see how the various watch models look on their own wrists.

With the IWC iPhone app, users now have simple, direct access to all the main content on the IWC website and can discover a wealth of interesting details about the collection. Digital animations explain complex mechanisms such as the depth gauge on the Aquatimer Deep Two or the digital calendar on the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month. The Portuguese Automatic's power reserve can be wound up virtually while the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar shows the moon phase for the next few days and the button on the Big Ingenieur Chronograph can be pushed to record stopped times. Another impressive feature is the Try-it function where, in just a few easy steps, users can take a photograph to see how the various watch models look on their own wrists. IWC app users can likewise listen to the minute repeater chime out the time and view prize-winning movies about products in the various watch families. «The IWC Book of Dreams» takes viewers on a magical journey through the IWC Vintage Collection. Also featured is another recent award-winning film, «Galapagos - A Day with the Charles Darwin Foundation». This provides an insight into the work of the scientists and researchers with the IWC-sponsored Foundation and conveys the beauty of this unique archipelago together with the newly launched Aquatimer collection. The IWC app contains much more than just the history of IWC: it also provides information about the company's commitment to the environment and society as well as the various partnerships it has entered into and the special watch editions that go with them. If you wish to personalise your iPhone, you can download a virtual image of the Big Pilot's Watch for your touchscreen or choose one of the lifestyle images from your favourite product family as a screensaver.

Something else that will be much easier from now on is the search for the nearest authorized IWC retailer: users can use the app to guide them from their current location to the most convenient IWC retailer. The IWC app is available in English, French, German and Italian as well as Japanese and Chinese Simplified.

Simply follow this link to download the IWC app to your computer:

http://itunes.apple.com/ch/app/iwc/id348140539?mt=8

IWC-Da Vinci Chronograph Special Edition Collectors' Forum






The IWC Da Vinci Collectors' Forum was founded in 2001 and has since provided IWC devotees with a popular discussion platform and a source of fascinating and fully documented information about the brand. Over the years, a small community of individuals has developed within the group; their enthusiasm and loyalty have helped to keep online discussions lively and prompted our decision to make this second special offer.



We are therefore delighted to announce the launch of a limited special edition to our collectors in 2010: The Da Vinci Chronograph Special Edition Collectors' Forum, Ref. 3764, in stainless steel will feature certain details that make it unique. Apart from being limited to just 100 watches and having a visible engraving on the rotor reading "Collectors" Forum 2010, One out of 100", this very special timepiece has other eye-catching details such as rose gold-plated hands and indices on a silvered dial. Last but not least, the package also contains an official certificate of ownership. As a generous extra and token of our appreciation, we are pleased to present you with a bracelet in stainless steel together with the original alligator leather strap in black.





Omega Wants Constellation Watch To Be Flagship Lady's Model



In the recent past I discussed the new Constellation models from Omega for women (here once again) . It has now become clear that Omega sees the Constellation line of their primary lady's model given the sheer variety and models available. Not to mention that its current female brand ambassadors (such as Cindy Crawford who has been working with Omega since 1995) are often seen wearing constellation watch models. The watches come in no less than five sizes! 38, 35, 31, 27, and 24mm wide. Colors are endless with versions in steel to gold, and in purple or champagne to black or white. It is very clear that a brand intends for a model to be a global flagship piece then they are offered in steel with quartz movements, to versions in gold with diamonds and a mechanical movement.

Movements in the higher end models are clearly Omega Co-Axial automatic calibers such as the 8500/8501, 8520/8521, down to the caliber 2500. Quartz models have Swiss caliber 1376 or 1523 movements. In each size, the Constellation retains the iconic look of the angular case with side mounted "claws." Really I think that "claws" are a terrible way to discuss the aesthetic features on the side of the case, but that is Omega's terminology.

One of the elements that is so connected to the classic Constellation watches is the seamless look of the bracelets. Using large links with no gaps, the watches have a very distinct look with the large and simple, though tapering and complex in construction bracelet. New for today and never part of the original line are colorful rubber straps that emulate the looks. Trying telling Omega that they would be pairing diamond covered gold watches with a rubber strap back in 1982 and they would likely laugh you out of the room. How times change.

I do agree that the new lady's Constellation watch models do make for an excellent lady's watch - really Omega has nothing else in the elegance department. Their ladies Planet Ocean watches for example, are simply shrunken down men's versions and too sporty looking for many women. With a high level of utility, beauty, and available luxury, the new Omega Constellation watches for women is an ample and flattering choice. Prices will likely start at a few thousand to upwards of $10,000 - $15,000 (or more) for top-end models.


 

Omega Constellation Ladies Quartz 27 mm

Frederique Constant Junior Watches: Finally, Someone Has Thought Of The Children




With a relatively smooth and easy to navigate website along with a clear hole in the market, Frederique Constant has released a new product along with a mini-website aimed at the marketing for entry-level luxury watches for boys. This is their answer to the most common of questions, "What watch should I get little Ben for his Bar Mitzvah?"

It's true that the vast majority of people wishing to get watches for 12-16 boys don't have a lot of ready answers from a marketing perspective. It can be a daunting question, and price will always be an issue when looking at a "nice watch." Plus, men and women who enjoy luxury watches often are interested in getting the young people in their lives acquainted with their passions - a Japanese quartz movement based watch is not a bad idea, but does not have the same effect as a genuine mechanical Swiss watch when it comes to engendering a new hobby. There is also the "father son" aspect of having an interest in watches. As such, Frederique Constant will begin a new advertising campaign with this theme in mind.

While these new Frederique Constant Junior watches don't inherently have anything unique about them, they are all about "packaging." A one stop shop for that sentimental timepiece gift awaits at Frederique Constant Junior website. A novice or child themselves can easily navigate the site and quickly use the selector to pick something out. At laugh there is one main watch type that comes with three complication varieties. In addition to the current automatic mechanical watches, the Junior line will be offered with quartz movements soon. The three pictured watches are a three-hand with date, chronograph, and day-date model. The cases are in steel and 38mm wide with either silver or black tones dials, and sapphire crystals. There are several leather strap color options available, as well as a metal bracelet option. The site automatically features the ability to engrave the back of the watches (that also have a small viewing window into the movement).

From a marketing perspective the move is very clever by Frederique Constant, and I like how the product is shown and presented. It will be an easy choice for the many people who feel intimidated by the task of finding a nice reasonably priced watch for a young teenage boy. However, the watches are really not inherently unique (even within Frederique Constant's own line) and there are plenty of other offerings at this watch size and price range if you aren't feeling fabulous about this typical type of Frederique Constant style. Prices are around 550 euros.





Omega Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition Watch


In a time when ultra expensive watches aren't doing as well as well-designed moderately priced ones, it is funny to see Omega release a clearly expensive limited edition tourbillon watch in platinum. But with only 18 pieces their motive isn't likely profit here, but street cred. There is a growing tendency among mainstream level luxury watch brands to assert themselves technologically. Meaning, prove that they have what it takes to build very complex modern watches, with the hopes that this conceptual perception will seep its way into consumer's minds who wish to purchase everything from a Speedmaster to a Seamaster. Yes of course it is true that the movements in those watches came way before this the new Omega manually wound Calibre 2636 in this Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum watch, but we are talking "perception" not necessarily reality.

The whole techno point of this new Omega tourbillon watch is to have a centrally mounted tourbillon. As you can see it is placed in the middle of the watch dial. This hasn't been done before in just such a manner, but there are other watches that could claim to have centrally mounted tourbillons - such as the new Thomas Prescher Mysterious Automatic Double Axis Tourbillon watch (square case though). What Omega can claim is that everything here is centrally mounted (sort of). Because there is no place for the hands to be mounted in the middle of the watch, they are actually printed on sapphire discs that move around the dial. This gives it a "mysterious" look meaning you can't easily see how the hands are attached to anything.

Each tourbillon carriage is hand made meaning it is a bit different from the last. A master watch maker dedicates 100s of hours to making each one. You can see the seconds hand placed over the 60 second tourbillon as it doubles as a seconds counter. In Omega fashion, this tourbillon is certified as a Chronometer (for accuracy) making it a bit unique among tourbillon watches. Aside from the tourbillon you have a nice open dial showing you the movement. The platinum case is De Ville style (from that current watch line) and is matched to an Alligator strap. The watch isn't the most attractive novelty I have seen lately, but is probably pretty impressive in person. Surely Omega will find 18 collectors who "gotta have it." Not sure about price, but it won't be affordable.

Christophe Claret Dual Tow Watch In Black & White


The master watch maker's brand Christophe Claret's first watch the Dual Tow, now will come in a tuxedo style black and white version. Already the watch is bought via a handy customization tool where the buyer opts for a wide range of options including colors and materials. This new combination of colors also represents titanium as a material for the complex watch case. While titanium has been available for the Dual Tow from the beginning, I personally saw and enjoyed the watch in its gold form.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day Date Watch For 2010






One of Audemars Piguet's nicest watches for 2010, is one that received little mention in their current media blast. I caught some images though on my wrist at SIIH, and here is the new for 2010 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day Date watch. A lovely simple creation it takes the classic Royal Oak case and style and adds "binocular eyes" that serve as subdials for the day and the date. Movement of course is an in-house made Audemars Piguet automatic - not sure right now of the movement reference number. Unlike the more aggressive Royal Oak Offshore, the Royal Oak is a relatively thin and very comfortable timepiece with a winning design that still looks fresh after more than 30 years. The simplicity of the time, day, and date indicators is unmatched. Really an attractive little piece. It comes in steel with a steel bracelet (excellent finishing) as well as in 18k rose gold matched with a brown alligator strap. Price is $15,400 in steel and $26,900 in rose gold.

IWC Wins Readers' Choice Award for Best Watch Line

 

IWC is the winner of the Readers' Choice Award for Best Watch Line.

With a deep connection to functionally themed luxury sport watches, IWC rejects an approach to watch making that focuses on form over function. In recent years according to one poll, IWC, has risen to be considered the top luxury watch brand among wealthy Americans. Frequently sighted on the wrists of athletes to actors and bankers, the wide adoption of IWC watches proves that watch lovers want timepieces with utilitarian roots.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph watches are split between two major styles, with activity themed offerings such as Pilot or Aquatimer diving watches, and classic "thinking person" styles such as the mega popular Portuguese or Ingeniuer timepieces. Equally proficient in steel or gold, IWC is also known to offers excellently finished movements of in-house design and manufacture. IWC is also known for offering luxury watches for a wide array of budgets from mid level luxury to the ultra high-end.

While a name like "International Watch Company" might sound universal, the brand is totally Swiss in design and quality. IWC watches have little trouble being recognized in most circles and benefit from a distinct lack of pretentiousness in their brand image. Owning an IWC luxury watch typically communicates that you buy nice watches for your own enjoyment, not merely for others to see.

Bulgari Diagono Calibro 303 Watch



Bulgari is getting serious again about making its own watch movements. With ETA cracking down on handing certain movements to competitors and complex movement makers shutting down, all the important watch brands known that they need to have the ability to make their own movements in the future. Flexing their mechanical muscles, brands need to assert that they have what it takes to make complex to basic movements that are reliable and relatively affordable. Having said that Bulgari is due to release is new Diagono Calibro 303 watch that features the in-house made BVL caliber 303 movement. Why is it called that? Because it is made of 303 parts. The movement is an automatic chronograph with the date.

The case is 42mm wide in steel with an 18k white gold bezel (with the needed BVLGARI BVLGARI text). The dial has applied rose gold indexes and hands with a mostly blue half and a silver tone half. Lots of signature texturing and cotes de geneve polish on the dial as well. Nothing super new, but a nice refresh of the design. The watch is matched to a blue toned alligator strap. Price is about 11,800 Swiss Francs.

A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar Watch




A new classic from German A. Lange & Sohne this year is the easy-to-love Saxonia Annual Calendar watch. In the tradition of many successful "triple calendar" watches (named as such for displaying the day, date, and month), the Saxonia Annual Calendar also adds the requisite moon phase indicator to complete the look. The watch isn't just about the information it displays, but the delivery of the details as well as the dial layout which is important to its adherence to the classic look. This piece is sure to be a winner for A. Lange & Shone.

Unlike most A. Lange & Sohne watches the Saxonia Annual Date comes with an automatic movement. The Caiber L0851. Sax-O-Mat has what Lange calls a 3/4 automatic rotor, which is in 21k gold and engraved. This is smaller than a full rotor, but larger than a micro-rotor. The movement has a power reserve of 46 hours and a zero-reset function when the crown is pulled out for easy precise setting of the time. The moon phase is accurate to about one day each 122 years.




Pushers on the side of the case are used to adjust the calendar functions if necessary - which itself needs to be adjusted maximum of once per a year (assuming you keep the watch wound). The operation of the movement is flawless. This is of course due to the fact that it is totally in-house made and designed by Lange. The case size is medium at best being 38.5mm in size. Lange watches sometimes feel small in your hand until you place them on your wrist and they feel just right. Their purpose is to make comfortable luxury watches that excel at their prime purpose of looking good and telling the time (and other related data). You can tell that the dial layout is comfortable in poise and purpose. It follows the basic look of other Saxonia watches, with the additional information. Hands are the right length (as always for the brand), and in gold matched to the other gold pieces on the dial. The white gold version has blued steel hands though.

The case is immaculately finished. In fact, I've never handled any watch that is as well finished as one from A. Lange & Sonhe - even at much higher prices. The Saxonia Annual Calendar watch is available in 18k white gold or pink gold. Price is the same for each at 27,500 euros. All things equal, the price is pretty good given the movement and quality of the watch in comparison to what else is out there.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.



Artya For One Of A Kind Luxury Art Watch Creations



While at the Geneva Time Exhibition 2010 recently I got to meet with one of my modern watch making heroes, Yvan Arpa. I have discussed his exploits during his time at Romain Jerome, and his new project is Artya. In addition, he will be designing a line of watches for Volna. Artya is interesting concept that could only come from a mind like Arpa's. An artist himself, he sees a large niche for watches made by talented people who consider themselves artists above only watch makers. Arpa is also interested in exclusivity. For that reason, each and every Artya watch will be totally unique - as well as relatively affordable. In a time when a totally unique watch costs over $100,000, how is it possible that Artya watches will mostly cost under $10,000?

It has to do with Arpa's vision for how the watches are made. Instead of making totally unique cases in the manufacturing process, Artya creates unique cases more organically. The workshop's process involves a tesla coil. Making artificial lightning that "tortures" the watches. The result is mostly cases that are too destroyed, but in the experimentation comes pieces that are interesting in style and suitable for the necessary level of water resistance.






There are of course the dials that are unique to each watch. Artists employ a number of different techniques from painting to sculpture to make unique dials. Pictured in the galley below is a painted dial, while above you can see the watch that Yvan Arpa himself was wearing. This fantastic creation is a sculpture of electronics that showcases a mechanically complex tourbillon movement. Given the movement this watch would retail for more than $10,000, but isn't for sale. One again, each watch that Artya creates is totally unique, a one-of-a-kind creation for art lovers and watch collectors alike.



Arpa imbues the brand with other interesting components. Two of which can be seen here. First is the rear of their automatic mechanical watches that reveal and interesting square gear. This seemingly impossible component is linked to the automatic rotor and spins around the rear of the watch. Another interesting material is the strap on the above tourbillon watch. What is it? I couldn't guess at first. Yvan informed me that it was toad skin. Imagine that? Works with the style well doesn't it? Also, when you get the watches my understanding is that they come with a frame for wall mounting them.

Yvan's dedication to his new brand is unparalleled and it is more than a instant project for him. I look forward to seeing all the interesting things that come out of it. If you are interested in learning more about these intentionally crazy watches, just visit Artya's website here.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.



Girard-Perregaux Flyback Chronograph Monte Carlo 1973 Watch

 
*Provided by contributing editor Tom Mulraney*



It’s Monte-Carlo. The year is 1973.The atmosphere is electric, the scenery breathtaking and the people beautiful. All along the French Riviera expectant spectators, their breaths held in anticipation, crane their necks in the direction of the distant, glorious roar of innumerable high-powered vehicles thundering towards them at a tremendous pace. In front of their very eyes history is in the making.
This was the Monte-Carlo rally at its peak. An infinitely complex sporting competition held since 1911 between the French Alps and the French Riviera, attracting the greatest drivers from around the world.
This particular race, however, has a special significance in history’s pages for a number of reasons. 1973 marked the 42nd edition of the Monte-Carlo Rally and saw the launch of the new World Championship for car Brands. Perhaps fittingly the race itself was especially intense with no clear winner emerging until the final moments. After a grueling duel between Jean-Claude Andruet and Ove Andersson which lasted almost the entirety of the race, spectators witnessed a stunning finale.
Jean-Claude Andruet and Mademoiselle “Biche” won with their Alpine Renault A110 n°18. For the first time, a woman entered in the history of the rally as overall co-winner.
To pay tribute to this momentous occasion and in recognition of the brand’s association with the Monte-Carlo Historic Rally, Girard-Perregaux presents their new Fly-Back Chronograph. Designed with racing enthusiasts in mind it is a true sports watch and thanks to the fly-back function the traditional sequence of operations: stop-reset-start has been replaced by a single press of the push-piece. As is to be expected the Monte Carlo 1973 is equipped with a tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel which allows the user to calculate the speed of a body in motion. How often you will actually use this function is a different matter entirely, however, it is a foregone conclusion that this is a prerequisite for any serious sports watch.
The design, of itself, is not anything particularly striking and one could be forgiven for mistaking it for one of the numerous variations of the Omega Speedmaster. However, it is the little touches that make this piece an instant classic. Keeping true to its heritage the piece features a sapphire “Box” crystal and the style of the tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel is reticent of timepieces from the beginning of the 1970s. The dial also features subtle blue highlights which draw the eye without making the watch look gaudy and distinguish it from the countless other chronographs on the market.
The piece is finished off with a timeless black alligator strap with a folding buckle which in my eyes further heightens its appeal as so many chronographs these days are fitted with rubber straps, thus precluding them from more formal occasions.
As a final touch the dial has been personalized with the inscription “Monte-Carlo 1973” and the case-back is engraved with the winners’ number plate, the names of the car and its drivers.
Girard-Perregaux has a long and rich association with the racing industry and this piece is no exception. Designed for the discerning, upmarket buyer this is a classic timepiece that is just slightly different from the myriad of other chronographs on the market. And with a limited production of just 250 numbered edition pieces you can be fairly certain you won’t be seeing too many of these on the wrists of others.
The Girard-Perregaux Fly-Back Chronograph “Monte-Carlo 1973”: a fitting tribute to a most exceptional of races.
Technical specifications:
Stainless steel case
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Sapphire crystal
Case-back secured by 7 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters
Girard-Perregaux movement GP0337A
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 63
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Alligator strap with folding buckle
Limited and numbered edition of 250 pieces
Presented in a case decorated with the “Automobile Club de Monaco” symbol

IWC For Prada Ref. 3708 Limited Edition Watch Available






I've often thought it odd that Prada is of the few luxury fashion brands out there that doesn't a nice watch collection. I mean they do have some branded watches, but they are nothing special. The brand is really missing out. This IWC watch is the next best thing, and is a damn good looking IWC watch based on it's GST series (whose case later made it to the first Aquatimer watch series).

This is a very rare IWC for Prada limited edition watch that was released several years ago. There were only 2000 pieces, and they are hard to come by today. The original price was something like 8,000 Euros. This one on eBay is in basically mint condition and going for about half that. I'd like to think that this watch would look damn nice with an all black suit right? The movement is a modified ETA Valjoux 7750 that has the seconds counter removed to give it a cleaner bi-compax layout for the subdials. The use of silver tones with the black subdials is well done. My feeling is that the watch is thematically similar to the classic Porsche Design Chronograph 1 watch released in the 1970s.







If you like Prada, then this is a good find. If you don't care for Prada thenit is still a nice watch, and basically a good looking IWC (and you can just ignore the word Prada on the face and back). I know that some of you really get irked when a fashion label places its name on a watch that they really didn't have much to do with. I am no brand whore, but I have to say that I think certain major fashion brands got to be that way because they make mostly nice clothes. This is of course before entities like Gap came about. So check out this really nice fine timepiece, it will find a home with just one lucky watch lover.

Avenir Chrono Boss Premiere Watches



When Avenir Chrono's people were telling me about their new Boss Premiere line of watches (seen here), they mentioned a host of celebrities who were known to wear or own the watches. The funny thing was that I'd never heard of all but one of the people they mentioned. This rather amused me. I was first curious as to what portion of the pop culture demographic they were referring to (later I learned it was mostly people in the hip hop community), and then I was curious as to just how "out of it" I am when it comes to pop culture. Granted, I don't keep up much with the hip hop crowd, and of course less as to what they are wearing. Maybe because they have a reputation for being on distasteful side of "bling" to often (i.e. most of the Jacob & Co. produces). But watches like this Avenir Chrono don't phase me that way. They are certainly a major step up from diamond gilded Casio G-Shock watches.


In fact, I think that these timepieces are pretty cool. Sure they are showy, and have a quasi ridiculous name like "Boss Premiere." It sort of sounds like a fake title that a company owner would put on their business card. "All bow down to the BOSS PREMIERE." Maybe that is what the employees of China's Premiere call him after asking "what is your bidding sir?" For years nice watches have had the power to make you feel important. You can laugh all you want at such "loud and in your face' timepieces, but a good watch can make you feel 'your worth.' Given this fact, there is a huge market for timepieces that "make you feel like a big man," and Avenir Chrono fits in to this broad niche. You can put Breitling in there too. These comments may sound critical of the brand, but they are not. Instead, I am trying to discuss where a watch like this fits in to the horological ecosystem.

Avenir Chrono was started by the Ukrainian immigrants jewelers who started the popular Rafaello & Company Jewelers. Looks like there is gonna a long line of chronograph watches coming from them with a name like that. The watches are made via partners in Switzerland with Swiss movements. The Boss Premiere timepieces use ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic movements. There are the same as a Valjoux 7750, but with a tri-compax chronograph layout and no day of the week indicator. There is likely an open caseback with a view into the movement.




The real draw is in the fanciful design of the cases and bracelet. There is a lot of visual stimulation, and an important amount of high contrasting colors for your eyes to dance around at. While the dials aren't the epitome of legibility, they aren't half bad. The gold version is best with the gold hands on the steel toned dial. The watches actually come in steel, rose gold, and platinum (that's right). So you can imagine the price range for the models differs greatly. Not sure that, but there are diamonds involved! Oh yes, you can get these watches decked out - stepping you up that much closer to bling heaven. Thankfully, even on the totally diamond encrusted versions, the dial stays safe from the jewels.

In addition the other metals, each case has a lot of titanium in it. Likely all the PVD black coated material that you see on the case and bracelet. The cases actually are available in two sizes, either 50mm or 44mm wide. Depending on how big you want to go. The dial are functional and attractive. Nothing out of this world, but a bit more exciting looking than your average aviator inspired watch dial. The guilloche engraving on the dial steps the novelty up a notch. Avenir Chrono is beginning to remind me of a higher-end version of Formex actually, with a jewelry store twist. Pricing for the steel versions start at about $12,500. Steep, but not ludicrous for a Swiss chronograph watch of limited production. Go to platinum and the prices jump to about $45,000. Get some diamonds involved on one of the "Black Snow" models and you are looking at prices from between $65,000 - $120,000. Now you have more ammo in your watch knowledge weapon when trying to figure out what the next urban music star you see is wearing.

Calibre de Cartier

A Manufacture spirit for a new masculine emblem











Daring, excellence, and inventiveness: the history of Cartier watchmaking is a reflection of a unique state of mind. A boundless tradition of research and pioneering that has doubly presided over the creation of a new Cartier watch for men, characterised by a bold Manufacture spirit: the Calibre de Cartier.

This creation is equipped with the first self-winding mechanical movement crafted entirely by Cartier: the calibre 1904 MC. A new move forward that testifies to the priority Cartier gives to developing its own movements, based on in-depth, ambitious research.





Calibre de Cartier is a watch of character that challenges the round form in watchmaking through its mechanical construction, its noble balance between resilience and finesse, and the contrasting interplay of its polished, satin-brushed finishes.

A clear and simple style that is at the origin of a new Manufacture men’s watch, powered by the new masterpiece of Cartier watchmaking: the 1904 MC.





A men’s watch with intrinsic value

At first glance, the Calibre de Cartier watch is an arresting sight! Its powerful lines, robust case, and novel structure all indicate a Manufacture watch with a strongly defined character.

Its mechanical construction resolutely confirms this initial impression: its round case, measuring 42 mm in diameter, is heightened by a bezel and extended by four curved horns set precisely into the cylindrical case middle. It has a forthright personality that invites you to surpass your own limits.

Striking a subtle balance between power and finesse, the Calibre de Cartier watch is exceptionally comfortable to wear. It feels like a second skin and owes its ergonomics to the four horns that curve inwards to embrace the shape of the wrist. Its refined silhouette is punctuated by a polished, satin-brushed double shoulder, which protects the sides of the crown from any impacts that could affect its operation.




The bezel that embellishes the case also plays on contrasts: smooth and polished on the exterior, it becomes increasingly dynamic as it approaches the case. A 28 degree freefall towards the dial culminates in a fluted ring marked with 120 notches; a subtle detail that refers both to watchmaking trains and to the Manufacture spirit that pervades this new masculine timepiece.

The dial offers a virile reinterpretation of both the Cartier watchmaking codes and Roman numerals. It is dominated by an extra-large XII figure in subtle relief. This modern signature, enhanced by a succession of grained and snailed finishes arranged in arcs, places the Calibre de Cartier watch firmly in the dynamics of the 21st century.

A transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the calibre 1904 MC, the first self-winding movement to be produced entirely by Cartier. It demonstrates the astonishing expertise of a brand set to attract all lovers of beautiful watchmaking with this new emblem of masculinity.


The calibre 1904 MC
The new triumph of Cartier watchmaking




The calibre 1904 MC reflects the intense, ambitious research that Cartier has carried out over the years in the field of watchmaking mechanisms. This overt determination to develop its own movements, both simple and with complications, confirms Cartier’s strong intent to uphold the great tradition of fine Swiss watchmaking Manufactures.


Christened the 1904 MC in homage to the birth of Cartier watchmaking, the first self-winding movement to be entirely produced by Cartier perpetuates the vitality of an approach that is driven by a constant desire to go further. The conquest of time took on a whole new meaning in 1904 when Louis Cartier created a watch for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. It was one of the very first watches to be worn on the wrist and enabled the pilot to read the time while keeping his hands on the controls during flight. This exciting development was born from passion, a taste for adventure, and a pioneering spirit that propelled watchmaking firmly into the modern era. More than a century later, the 1904 MC movement is launching a new chapter dedicated to Cartier watchmaking.

Utmost timekeeping precision
Precision, resilience, and reliability have determined the development of the first mechanical self-winding movement to be entirely created by Cartier. A successful blend of technology and aesthetics, the calibre 1904 MC meets the extremely demanding standards set by Cartier for all of its creations.




This new 11 ½ line calibre has been designed to ensure excellent chronometric stability at all levels of winding, whether the watch is worn for an hour or an entire day. To achieve this, the movement is equipped with a double barrel that guarantees the excellent, long-term consistency of the mainspring, thus making it possible to control and stabilise timekeeping precision.

The calibre 1904 MC is fitted with a fine regulation system for perfect adjustment of the movement’s chronometry. Carried out by Cartier watchmakers, who meticulously adjust the arrow of the C-shaped index, this operation is essential to the accurate running of the watch.

To enable each owner to set the watch accurately to the nearest second, the calibre 1904 MC is equipped with a stop-seconds system. When the crown is pulled out fully, the small-seconds hand stops instantly and immediately restarts once the crown is pushed back in against the case.




An innovative system for winding the time
The winding system of self-winding movements is often subjected to severe constraints that may affect its performance. To counteract this weakness, the calibre 1904 MC features a system of ceramic ball bearings fitted at the centre of the rotor, which ensures excellent shock resistance and tremendous durability.

Cartier has also abandoned the traditional reversers used in self-winding mechanisms, replacing them with an even more innovative pawl system that results in a faster winding rate, thus allowing the watch to be wound more easily.

Lastly, when the watch is worn on the wrist, a bi-directional winding system enables the oscillating weight to wind the movement as it rotates both clockwise and anti-clockwise.

Fine watchmaking finishes that go beyond the purely visible
The passion of artisan decorators drives an endless quest for beauty that highlights and enhances fine watchmaking movements. Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back of the Calibre de Cartier, watch, the upper bridges and oscillating weight are decorated with the traditional Côtes de Genève. Even the main plate is circular-grained, despite the fact that it is hidden by the movement’s components.

The care devoted to the finishes adorning the calibre 1904 MC demonstrates Cartier’s resolve to offer an exquisitely crafted movement that exceeds the immediately visible.





Crafting the components of time differently: an endless quest for quality
Located at the heart of Swiss watchmaking, the Cartier Manufacture brings together all the artisanal professions of the industry, placing the most advanced technology alongside traditional crafts. This wealth of exceptional expertise, accumulated over many years, has given rise to the first self-winding mechanical movement to be made entirely by Cartier.

Development of this completely new Cartier movement has been led by a specialised unit made up of approximately twenty people representing all stages of its creation: design, development, industrialisation, prototyping, and homologation. It is a long and rigorous process that is essential to guaranteeing the quality of a new movement before it goes into production. The reliability, resilience, and precision of the new calibre 1904 MC have been verified by a highly stringent testing programme carried out in the Cartier laboratory, located in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

For the development of its new movement, Cartier implemented an innovative organisational watchmaking strategy that preserves the craftsman’s expertise and emphasises the importance of human skills. This method creates a team of representatives from all of the crafts involved in the production of the movement, thus facilitating communication throughout the team and allowing better quality control at each stage of production and assembly.

This unfailing devotion to quality has resulted in the birth of the latest Cartier watchmaking masterpiece: the calibre 1904 MC.

Calibre 1904 PS MC
Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding − Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar − Diameter: 11 ½’’’ (25.6 mm) − Thickness: 4 mm − Number of jewels: 27 − Number of components: 186 − Double barrel − Oscillating weight self-winding pawl − Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz) − Power reserve: approx. 48 hours − Finishes: Côtes de Genève on the bridges and oscillating weight.

Calibre de Cartier Collection

Photos Franck Dieleman © Cartier 2009


The Calibre de Cartier watch is available in three versions: pink gold, steel, or a combination of the two. With a dial in black, white, or chocolate-brown, this new creation has made a striking entry into the 21st century. It offers a eulogy to masculinity that echoes the rhythm of the first self-winding movement to be produced entirely by Cartier.

Calibre de Cartier watch
Steel - White dial


 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, steel, white dial




 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, steel, white dial



Case: 42 mm in steel – Dial: silvered opaline, 7 black Roman numerals, 4 luminescent hour-markers – Crown: in steel, set with a synthetic spinel cabochon – Crystal: sapphire – Case back: transparent sapphire crystal – Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding, calibre 1904 PS MC – Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar window – Strap: black alligator skin – Folding clasp: double adjustable, in steel – Water resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar.


Calibre de Cartier watch
Steel - Black dial



 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, steel, black dial




 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, steel, black dial


Case: 42 mm in steel – Dial: black, 7 white Roman numerals, 4 luminescent hour-markers – Crown: in steel, set with a synthetic spinel cabochon – Crystal: sapphire – Case back: transparent sapphire crystal – Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding, calibre 1904 PS MC – Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar window – Strap: black alligator skin – Folding clasp: double adjustable, in steel – Water resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar.

Calibre de Cartier watch
Pink gold and steel - White dial

  
The Calibre de Cartier watch, pink gold and steel, white dial


 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, pink gold and steel, white dial


Case: 42 mm in steel and 18 carat pink gold – Dial: silvered opaline, 7 black Roman numerals, 4 luminescent hour-markers – Crown: in steel, set with a synthetic spinel cabochon – Crystal: sapphire – Case back: transparent sapphire crystal – Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding, calibre 1904 PS MC – Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar window – Strap: black alligator skin – Folding clasp: double adjustable, in steel – Water resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar.


Calibre de Cartier watch
Pink gold - White dial

 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, pink gold, white dial



 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, pink gold, white dial


Case: 42 mm in 18 carat pink gold – Dial: silvered opaline, 7 black Roman numerals, 4 luminescent hour-markers – Crown: in 18 carat pink gold, set with a sapphire cabochon – Crystal: sapphire – Case back: transparent sapphire crystal – Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding, calibre 1904 PS MC – Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar window – Strap: brown alligator skin – Folding clasp: double adjustable, in 18 carat pink gold – Water resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar.


Calibre de Cartier watch
Pink gold - Chocolate-brown dial

 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, pink gold, chocolate-brown dial



 
The Calibre de Cartier watch, pink gold, chocolate-brown dial


Case: 42 mm in 18 carat pink gold – Dial: chocolate-brown, 7 black Roman numerals in a pink-gold colour, 4 luminescent hour-markers – Crown: in 18 carat pink gold, set with a sapphire cabochon – Crystal: sapphire – Case back: transparent sapphire crystal – Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding, calibre 1904 PS MC – Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar window – Strap: brown alligator skin – Folding clasp: double adjustable, in 18 carat pink gold – Water resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar.