2.06.2010

Piaget Altiplano Automatic 43mm Ultra Thin Watch








Many people dream of really thin mechanical watches. I've even had people tell me how awesome it would be to have this ultra wafer thin watches. For me the idea wasn't super appealing in theory, and then I finally got to experience some ultra thin mechanical watches and the desire turned on like a light a switch. Most thin mechanical watches are manually wound, which sort of defeats the point for me - as what I really want are automatic watches.




Piaget presents the Altiplano 43 mm Calibre 1208P model. Designed to become part of the brand collection, whereas the model dedicated to the anniversary of Calibre 12P will remain an exclusive limited edition, this version has nonetheless been treated to the same meticulous finishing of both its movement and its exterior. Tapering lugs, a slender bezel, a pure dial, a calibre finished according to the aesthetic signature codes of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget: the entire range of features translates the understated elegance that is the keynote of this ultra-thin timepiece. The oscillating weight is crafted from 22-carat gold, while a small seconds display at 4 o’clock enlivens the dial and makes the record 2.35 mm slimness of Calibre 1208P even more remarkable.

Piaget has always been a "thin is in brand" stressing broad watch cases that barely lift of your wrists. They have been doing this for decades, especially appealing since they are a "real" watch maker that creates their own movements. One of the best parts of the ludicrously thin 5.25mm watch is that it has a sapphire exhibition caseback with a view into the new Piaget caliber 1208p hand-done movement. It is an homage to the 50 year old classic Piaget 12p movement that was a previous ultra thin movement by the brand. The finishing and decoration of the watch is outstanding. You can see the circular style polish strips, blued steel screws, and gold micro-rotor. Because the watch is wider at 43mm, the movement looks sized like a flat Waterman cracker. You see this attractive minimalist dial with a subsidiary seconds hand, and then pure watch making glory on the backside. It just all feels almost impossible.






As luxury watches go, these fit an interesting and important niche. Classy, formal, and dressy are all terms you could use to describe where a watch like this fits from a genre perspective. Still, Piaget sort of has its own niche. While their designs are fashion forward to the extreme. When it comes down to it they are split between watch engineers curious about pushing the technical envelope and creative types that continue with passion to make watches that move you. Like the anti-Breguet, Piaget has worked hard to make minimalist modern style a classic look. While from a terminology standpoint this is a paradox.

With the Altiplano 43 mm watch equipped with the new Calibre 1208P – just as with the anniversary limited-edition model and its Calibre 1200P – the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget is setting two new records: that of the thinnest mechanical self-winding movement on the market at 2.35 mm; and that of the thinnest watch in its category, measuring a mere 5.25 mm. A far cry from vintage or retro styled models, it is instead a great modern-day classic expressing a powerful new statement of Piaget’s supreme mastery in the realm of ultra-thin expertise.

From at least one other watch brand that they have almost bested Piaget in terms of size. They might have meant the 5.25mm thickness of the watch or the seemingly impossible 2.35mm thickness of the movement itself, less whether Piaget actually makes the thinnest this, or smallest that. It is the end result before my eyes that is what really matters. It is the emotional reaction .All the rest just make good talking points when bragging to friends - an activity far less common that enjoying the watch personally. Price is about $19,000.


Piaget Altiplano G0A35130


  • Large model 43 mm
  • 18-carat white gold case
  • Silver-coloured dial, black baton hour-markers, baton hands
  • Manufacture Piaget 1208P ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement
  • Functions: Hour, minute, small seconds (at 4 o'clock)
  • Movement thickness: 2.35 mm
  • Casing dimensions: 13 ¼ ’’’ ( 29.9 mm diameter)
  • Number of jewels: 27
  • Frequency: 21,600 vph
  • Approximately 40-hour power reserve
  • Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained plate, bevelled bridges, blued screws, sunray-brushed wheels, 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight engraved with Piaget coat of arms
  • 18-carat white gold pin buckle
  • Black alligator leather strap

Oris Divers Date Watch

You know what Oris makes a lot of? Diver's watches. The brand just makes a ton of these things. So many models, lots of weird iterations on the theme, after a while I just sort of stopped paying attention to their new models. I mean they came out with a regulator style diving watch. Why? I mean you really need to like regulator watches to be into one of those. There are small seconds, GMTs, all sorts of chronographs, and just a number of other interesting models. In my mind, no one else has as big a variety of mechanical diving watches as Oris. So sifting through all of them I wanted to look for the basic diver that they made that was good ol' dive watch goodness. I came up with the simply named Oris Divers Date watch.

Oris watches are sometimes hit and miss for me. This one I really like though. It is really a tool that is OK to wear for any occasion. The Divers Date (I am not sure why there is no apostrophe in "divers") has a great looking curvy case that is 44mm wide in steel. Actually, there is an almost identical version in titanium called the Divers TT1 Titan watch. This version is different in the material, and the 4 o'clock placement of the crown. OK, I need to stay focused on the watch at hand, but really, there are many versions of these watches.

The Divers Date comes in a few color styles. With the black dial, blue dial, and black dial with the partially red bezel. There are also lume dial (that look greenish), in the titanium versions. They should glow like mofos. The standard lume on the watch is actually bluish, which is nice. If you look closely you will notice a wave pattern texture on the dial that also looks good (similar to what you'd find on a Omega Seamaster 300m). Oris is unique for having its arrow head (sort of) style hour markers and the similar looking baton hands. Oris segments the hour hand to make it stand out from the hour hand more. I admit that marketing images like this of the watch do not do it justice. Google "Oris Diver Date" for owner images and reviews. You'll be sure it is a nice watch then, and you can really see how curvy and chunky the case is. A real professional tool as so many watches wish they could be.






Unlike most dive watches the Oris Diver Date has a see-through caseback with a view into the automatic mechanical movement. Of course the watch still retains 300 meters of water resistance. I am pretty sure the movement is a Swiss ETA 2824-2. You can see Oris's signature mostly red automatic rotor. The watch comes with nicely polished steel strap, and either the rubber strap is included or comes separately. It is a nice way to mix up the style, as well as the weight of the watch that is likely heavy (which I like). I further enjoy how Oris decided to place the date window at the 6 o'clock position making it more symmetrical. There is even a dot of lume beneath it as to not tarnish darkness viewing of the watch. Of course you know that I like the dial matching colored disc that the date is on. The rotating diver's bezel is exactly what you would expect. Nothing fancy or sub-par, just your standard easy to operate diver's bezel (with a top of lume at the top.








Price for these watches is one of the biggest selling points. You get a well-made Swiss watch for somewhere in the $1,000 - $1,300 range. This makes them a pretty good deal and a solid option when looking for a good daily watch or "nice" rugged timepiece that isn't cheap feeling. Especially if you want to feel ready to jump into a pond at any moment. Add it to the list of watches to want.


Ariel Adams 
Ablogtoread.com

IWC Watch-Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Collection





Finally a boat themed watch that people will be comfortable using on a boat. Since its inception long ago, the IWC Portuguese watch was meant as a nautical companion. As its popularity and luxury level grew, so did people's reluctance to subject their beautiful IWC Portuguese watches to the elements. For for 2010 IWC has released a more sporty, but no less luxurious form of the Portuguese watch known and the Yacht Club Chronograph. It is instantly recognizable as a Portuguese but clearly has a nice sporty elegance to it. Not aggressive in anyway, but tastefully functional - exactly the reason people prefer Portuguese watches. Differences between the standard Portuguese watches and the Yacht Club are subtle, but apparently. Notably are the colorations on the dial, the luminant on the hands, and of course the rubber straps. The case has also been beefed up a bit and there are now crown guards and redesigned chronograph pushers. Case size is 45.4mm wide (about 14.5mm thick) and it is water resistant to 60 meters.






Inside the watch is a really fantastic IWC in-house made movement. It is the caliber 89360 automatic (with a healthy 68 hours of power reserve) which is viewable through the caseback window. The automatic rotor is signature IWC in style and nicely engraved. Overall the movement finish and decoration is really nice for such a sporty watch - this aspect of the watch does not let down. The movement has a little aspect to it on the dial that is really easy to miss. Instead of the classic IWC Portuguese watches that have 30 minute chronographs, the Yacht Club has a 12 hour chronograph. The top subdial actually has two hands (one is hidden underneath the other while the chronograph is not in use). Thus, the same subdial has a ring for counting the minutes (60 total), and a smaller ring with a separate hand for the hours. See what I mean now when you look closely? This really ups the utility of the watch. The movement also has a date indicator that most Portuguese watches do not.




Dial design is really superb. The Portuguese style isn't what one would call exciting, but is excels in function and grace. Applied Arabic hour numerals and each conceivable marker ring give you all the information you need, without anything you don't. For example on the chapter ring flange IWC could have placed a useless tachymeter, but did not. Instead is a useful counter for the seconds and minutes. Hands are classic in style and all the right length. The chronograph centrally mounted seconds hand is a sporty red and easy to see. Don't forget the useful addition of the lume on the hour and minutes hands as well as for the hour indexes behind the numbered hour indicators. Also note that IWC matched the color of the date disc to the dial color.








The Portuguese Yacht Club watch comes in two steel versions and one in rose gold. The steel versions have a white or slate colored dial, while the rose gold version comes in slate. The little details all over as well as the movement decoration engraving on the crown, and of course the sporty style are things that will appeal to most every fan of IWC Portuguese watch as well as newcomers to the collection. Really a hit for SIHH 2010, I see this as being a new long standing addition to the collection. Maybe they will have one with a metal bracelet in the future. That will be interesting. Price is $12,600 in steel and $23,100 in rose gold. Available now or really soon.

Girard-Perregaux Ermenegildo Zegna Centennial Watch

2010 marks the Centennial year of Ermenegildo Zegna, one of Italy’s longest standing family-driven enterprises. Four generations of the Zegna family have directed the company’s activities and created a global brand with stores in eighty six countries. To celebrate this anniversary, Zegna is launching a limited edition watch created by Girard-Perregaux. The edition is limited to 100 pieces, available exclusively in the Top 20 Ermenegildo Zegna flagship stores worldwide.

This centenary watch expresses the Ermenegildo Zegna style while maintaining the spirit of a Girard-Perregaux. It also pays homage to the Zegna’s origins, as Angelo Zegna, the father of the founder Ermenegildo, was a watchmaker by trade. The round, pink-gold case houses an annual calendar movement with a highly original display. The date appears in a counter with the numerals delicately reproduced on the dial. The month is indicated in a window at 5 o’clock. The mechanism automatically allows for months of different lengths and only needs to be corrected once a year at most. The automatic winding movement can be viewed through the sapphire glass case-back adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna centenary logo.



Another fashion designer chooses a real watch maker to produce a special timepiece for them. This is a better option than them branding something cheaper with their name on it. It is a win-win situation for both sides. This watch is meant to celebrate the 100th year of everyone's favorite "too many syllables" Italian designer. To me, Ermenegildo Zegna is a name that looks awesome written down, but the second you try to pronounce it, things go down hill. The Girard-Perregaux name isn't shared on the dial with Zegna, but the style of the watch should tip off most fans of the Swiss brand involved.

Placed in a 40mm wide 18k pink gold case the watch contains the in-house made Girard-Perregaux Caliber 3300-0042 automatic movement. It has an annual calendar and an eccentric display of dials on the watch face. A disc underneath a crescent shaped window reveals the month, while a dial is used for the date while another dial indicators the seconds for the time. In modern Girard-Perregaux fashion, each of the small indicators is in a soothing blue with a different shape hand to help them stand out. In fact I really like Girard-Perregaux's use of this blue mixed with gold. It is a very regal look in my opinion. Fans of the Zegna fashion brand will clearly enjoy this timepiece, but I think most Girard Perregaux fans will flock to other more complex timepieces in this watch collection range. When I look at the dial I am now seeing an odd side skewed smiley face with the month indicator as the mouth and the subdials as eyes. Does anyone else see that?


Technical specifications

- Case: Pink gold case
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Height: 10.74 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- Sapphire case-back adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna centenary logo
- Water resistance: 30 metres

- Girard-Perregaux 3300-0042 movement
- Mechanical with automatic winding
- Calibre: 13’’’
- Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
- Jewels: 42
- Balance: Microvar, variable inertia
- Functions: Hour, minute, small second, annual calendar
- Power reserve: minimum 46 hours

- Alligator strap with clasp buckle adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna logo

- Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces

The Road to SIHH 2010




This slide show will chronicle my trip to SIHH -- the Road to SIHH.



Invicta Special Watches
Invicta Special Watches Sunday Run
Invicta Wristwatches

Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim Watch

I'm always a fan of the understated mechanical dress watch, and the recently announced Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim fits that category perfectly. Based on the high-grade ETA 2892 movement, it's available in 40 and 43mm sizes, in steel or gold case. Dials are black (shown right) or silver. It's an understated look, with just hours, minutes, and the date at six o'clock.

The 2892 is the next movement up from the ubiquitous 2824, and is considered to be a better design. It's the base for most of Omega's co-axial series, for example, and is held in very high regard by watch aficionados.

I think 40mm is a perfect size for this watch: large enough to read easily without partaking of the big watch craze. Even though I'm close to seven feet tall, I don't want a full-dress watch to occupy too much wrist space -- it's supposed to be understated, after all.

List price for these ranges from $745 to $795, and they seem to be available for a bit less than that. Given the 2892 beating inside it, I consider this to be an excellent value. We're in contact with Hamilton now to see if we can arrange a loaner for review.

A couple of more pictures and comments after the break.



Check out the bracelet version - gorgeous, isn't it? I quite like the super clean vintage look combined with hassle-free modern movement. I think I'd miss the second hand after a while, though.



Here's another shot of the same model - note the nice case detailing. Congratulations, Hamilton -- this one's a real classic.


**Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim Rose Gold













Paul Hubbard

watchreport.com

2.05.2010

BERTOLUCCI - Forza

Dedicated to the lovers of beautiful mechanics...







The Distinction universe of Maison Bertolucci explores the horizons of a different and suggestive luxury. Each line causes a stir with exclusive timepieces, inspired by the various influences of brand’s terrain. Know-how gives birth to inspiration: thanks to the high degree of demand and innovation, creativity, style and attractiveness can be expressed to the full. Whatever the mood, the imagination is inspired in quest of novelty and beauty, which takes us to the magical world of opulence and elegance. Bertolucci imposes a distinctive image with identifiable and daring, upscale and timeless pieces.

In 2010, Bertolucci opens up the Distinction universe to men with new upscale timepieces, resolutely modern and profoundly masculine: FORZA.

Dedicated to the lovers of beautiful mechanics and charismatic designs, FORZA is exclusively equipped with automatic movements revealed by the sapphire back of a generously proportioned all black case. Connoisseurs will appreciate watch-making functions of the various calibres which beat at the rate of 28’800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve of 38 or 42 hours. In an innovative construction celebrating the brand’s origins, the watch outlines a unique profile where lugs draw a profile of a wave under the large and comfortable “pebble” of the case. Unexpectedly, FORZA will become a precious object of design for men in search of a strong and contemporary instrument.

Designed in a sportive and distinctive style, the various versions of FORZA marry technique, strength and elegance. The model emerges by its profiled lines, its precise and integrated curves. It is offered in a range comprising three Swiss self-winding movements displaying different sets of functions on patterned opalin dials with applied indexes. According to their desire and their mood, men will opt for the chronograph with tachymeter scale, for the 3 hand watch with big date & power reserve indication, or for the 3 hand watch with day and date counters & power reserve indication. Mounted on a genuine rubber strap, the case alternates with a polished and fine-brushed finishing in an all black PVD execution, reinforcing the strong, stylish and functional look of FORZA.



TECHNICAL FEATURES


Case

. Material Stainless Steel
. Size Oval, 45.00 x 42.50 mm, with crown protectors on the side at 3 o’clock; 14.70 mm thickness
. Finishing All black PVD coated
. Glass Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
. Water resistance 50 meters (5 ATM) – 150 feet
. Functions Hours, Minutes & Seconds, Big Date, Power Reserve Indication; Time & Date setting crown at 3 o’clock
. Case back Skeleton with convex sapphire crystal revealing the movement; screw-on with 4 screws

Dial

. Base Black opalin with a shell pattern centre and a black internal flange with minute track printed in white; double calendar date at 12 o’clock; sub-dial at 6 o’clock indicating the power reserve on a red scale; “BERTOLUCCI” at 12 o’clock and “Automatic” at 6 o’clock printed in white

. Index 12 trapezoid indexes with luminescent Superluminova inlays, double-window date metallic frame, Bertolucci “B” applied at 12 o’clock; rhodium plated

Hands

H. & M. “Dauphine” skeleton, polished, rhodium plated, with luminescent Superluminova inlays; S. “Bâton” polished, rhodium plated, with a “Glaive” head inlayed with luminescent Superluminova; Power reserve sub-dial “Arrow” red, with luminescent Superluminova inlays

Movement

Swiss Automatic Watch, calibre Soprod 11½ 9090 (power reserve of 42 hours)

Bracelet

Black genuine rubber strap with a wave pattern, on stainless steel triple folding clasp, all black PVD coated

Reference 1344.51.42.102D.901

JAEGER-LECOULTRE – Exciting Times

The brand displayed not only innovative new products at the SIHH, but also some changes in strategy and management, particularly in the American market.

Jérôme Lambert, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2001, was very busy at the SIHH. This is not a new state of being for the 41-year-old finance expert with a solid love of watchmaking. Lambert has been on a career fast-track since his early days in Le Sentier under the tutelage of legendary manager Günther Blümlein.

America

The world economic crisis has not been easy on any brand, and it is particularly the North American market that has suffered, in some cases drastically. “[America] can be, well, dynamic,” Lambert confirms. “But I would say there is a strong eastern wind coming, which is also very interesting.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that has enjoyed wonderful growth in the U.S. market over the course of the last ten years, thanks in great part to North American president and U.S. FHH ambassador Ronald Wolfgang, who joined the company in 1999 after leaving Ebel. Wolfgang retired in July of 2008, but came out of retirement for a year to lead Roger Dubuis after Richemont’s takeover of that Geneva-based company. Wolfgang will now conclusively retire in April 2010.
Wolfgang was succeeded by Gina Gates-Misrach, who had been with Jaeger-LeCoultre in leading roles for nine years to that point. She is also now retiring from the company for personal reasons. During the era of these two leaders, Jaeger-LeCoultre was able to establish itself the U.S. as a force to be reckoned with.


 
Jérôme Lambert has been CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2001


According to Lambert, Wolfgang and Gates-Misrach did “fantastic work putting the brand on the map in the U.S.” As Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to evolve, however, so does the brand’s clientele. It began its run in North America with a broader base; customers interested in reliable, innovative in-house mechanics for a modest amount of money. The high complications of the last few years now see a need for the serious collectors to be addressed, however. “The arrival of watches like the Duomètre, for example, the tourbillons before that, and the minute repeaters before that, certainly speak more and more to a clientele that needs to be put in touch with [what we can do as a] watchmaker.

New challenges

It’s never boring at Richemont, and events have now made changes necessary. Philippe Bonay, previous head of Panerai in the U.S. was installed as director of A. Lange & Söhne seven months ago after enjoying a brief stint at Breitling. Bonay has accepted the new challenge of leading Jaeger-LeCoultre into the next phase from April 2010; Lange will receive a new American head in the form of Gaetan Guillosson, previously Lange’s brand manager for Western Europe.
Completely the second step now to be done is to bring the brand to a higher level of perception [in America],” Lambert reveals. “Where so many brands have been diluted by not having good partners at exactly at the right time, [our people] have truly already done a great job in choosing the right partners, very important in America. Philippe demonstrated his ability with Panerai, and then Lange, to work with these partners.”


 
The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 is probably one of the world’s most complicated chronographs



U.S. connoisseurs

Lambert’s brand has spent a great deal of time recently getting to know local connoisseurs in the various American markets through collector dinners.
It makes you develop the relationship that you have with the market,” he explains. “And I am a strong believer in America in terms of [it being a] ‘watchmaking’ market. Whatever the economic situation, I would say America is still a market that is evolving in terms of watchmaking knowledge, interest, and visibility.

However, he also cites the Internet and technological advances like iPhone apps as direct conduits for getting in touch with the consumer directly. “It is a tremendous way to bring the message and to be in contact with the end consumer in America,” he enthuses.


 
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Tradition Grande Complication was a highlight of the 2010 SIHH.


Optimists

Lambert reports a better Christmas season than last year, even in the U.S. “As to what the truth of the business is, we will know more over the next three to five months,” he predicts. “At least they [the retailers] were more open again and business could occur. That said, the Americans, as we know, remain optimists even in bad times.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE - Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates a world of exploration and invention with its new rugged chronograph in the Extreme Lab series.




 
Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2


Precision and reliability in time measurement for every situation: those are the core subjects of any watch taken aboard an expedition that is going to set out for an exploration of the boundaries of the world. During its whole history of 177 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has dedicated itself to pushing precision and reliability to the highest possible levels in horology.


With this expertise, the Manufacture in Switzerland’s Le Sentier is launching the new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2, a mechanical Chronograph with GMT-function, especially developed for use in the most extreme environments. This model is a rightful heir to one of the manufacture’s emblematic watches, the 1958 Chronomètre Geophysic. As such, it has an undeniable link with the Master Compressor line, which in the house of Jaeger-LeCoultre stands for die-hard-sports watches with innovative functions and thoroughly tested mechanisms – outfitted with state of the art technology, the latest in materials science and watchmaking development.

The new model unites sporting spirit with technical prowess for a resolutely extreme design, with a maximum of comfort and ergonomics and the right technology to keep the highest possible precision and reliability. Several new ideas and inventions make the watch the primary choice for when the going gets tough: An easy to use function selector regulated through the crown, a patented digital patented jumping digital minutes counter for easy readability and a clearly visible power reserve and a GMT-function make this chronograph a step forward in the development of horology for real life usage – anywhere. Additionally the watchmakers tackle an age-old problem of horology – time deviation through magnetism. Together with scientists, they found an innovative way of shielding the going train from magnetic influences.

All this is housed within a rugged watch case with external chassis, made of the light and extremely resistant TiVan15 titanium alloy and outfitted with a scratchproof high tech zirconium ceramic bezel. Specially designed, easy to use push buttons guarantee failure free use even when wearing gloves and an innovative interchangeable strap system with double pin buckle makes changing straps fast, easy and safe.

To test their ambitious project, Jaeger-LeCoultre has sent the Master Compressor Extreme LAB2 out into the wild with a mountaineering expedition called “Expedition Geophysic” to conquer a virgin peak in the Himalayas, which has been christened the Antoine LeCoultre’s Peak.

Throughout its history the company has proven its mastery of watchmaking, as a science as well as an artful craft.




Precise and easy handling

The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic with its second time zone has to be a trustworthy companion during months out in the field with no chances taken that could adversely affect its timekeeping. For this reason, the watchmakers of the manufacture have come up with some features that simplify its handling whilst at the same time guaranteeing utmost precision. In order to keep the movement running, even when time or date has to be set, they developed a function selector in combination with an extra, manually engaged, stop seconds button.



Function Selector

The function selector – activated by a pusher in the crown and indicated on the dial – essentially functions like a manual gear box in a car and presents three functions: watch winding in the first position, adjustment of the GMT-function and the date after pushing once, and time setting after a second push. Giving a third push makes the system return to its first position in which the crown is decoupled from the gear train of the watch and only allows winding the watch.

This system makes pulling the crown superfluous and therefore protects the watch from possible intrusions of dust and dirt for the crown stays in the same position at all times. Because of this construction, it was technically impossible – and unnecessary – to secure the crown with a Compressor-screw. Instead it is protected by the two chronograph pushers at the sides and sealed with a double gasket system.


Seconds stop

While the time is being set via the function selector, the seconds hand doesn’t stop so that it cannot affect the precision of the watch. If however the watch has to be set to a timing signal, the user simply operates the slider located on the left side of the case. By sliding it up and then pressing it, the seconds hand stops and upon releasing starts again. This double sliding-pushingfunction prevents the slider from being activated accidentally.



Power Reserve

The functions of any wristwatch rely of course on the power supplied to the movement. The winding barrel of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic provides 60 hours of constant energy to drive the watch movement. Nevertheless, for perfect reliability the user must be able to quickly view the state of the power reserve level so that the watch’s timing will not be negatively affected.

The state of the power reserve can be observed through a newly patented, intuitive and clearly visible semicircular radial power reserve indication surrounding the upper half of the dial. If the power reserve nears its end, the red color will fill the half circle. After winding, it re-initiates to black – clearly indicating the state of the winding barrel. The designers chose this unique and large display to allow for one glance monitoring of the state of the movement even under inclement weather conditions or use in twilight.



Digital Stop Minute Counter

In long-term timekeeping during endurance activities – such as mountaineers timing their ascending-plan – the stop-minutes counter is at least as important as the stop seconds hand. For better readability at a glance, the designers decided on the following layout of the dial: At 12 o’clock a window shows a patented jumping digital minute counter for clear readability of the chronograph function. It works on the basis of an instant jumping mechanism that is activated precisely at the point the seconds hand passes the zero-mark. The central stop-seconds hand shows the seconds passing in a traditional way. Whereas the chronograph’s hour counter runs in the same sub dial as does the small permanent seconds – as indicator for a properly working movement.




Sturdy design for easy and reliable usage

The Master Compressor Extreme LAB2 Tribute to Geophysic is a chronograph combining sporting spirit and technical prowess into a resolutely extreme design, with a maximum of comfort, readability and ergonomics. High tech materials and daring shapes combined with the sandwich structure of the case, transforming the watch into a state-of-the-art timing instrument.

The black zirconium ceramic bezel together with the sapphire glass forms an almost indestructible upper section. For the casing the designers came up with a bipartite carrierconstruction for the Master Compressor Chronograph Extreme LAB 2 in which an outer carrier holds the bracelet and simultaneously forms the frame for the inner watchcase that houses the movement itself. This system delivers a maximum of sturdiness combined with a minimum of weight; which is especially true since the watchmakers chose an exceptional titanium alloy called TiVan15 as the case material. In this alloy made of titanium and Vanadium extraordinary physical resistance to tension, torsion and scratches is improved by 15% compared to traditional titanium alloy. The case-construction itself exudes a sporty no-nonsense look befitting its use under all kinds of tough environments.



Pushbutton construction

This casing solution – inspired by the Master Compressor Extreme LAB – delivers maximum ergonomics. An innovative pushbutton construction makes sure that the watch can be easily handled in any situation. For this reason, the pushbuttons themselves are protected by large Lshaped metal arms, which are fixed at one point in the case close to the crown, thus forming a large contact surface for better ergonomics and simultaneously providing superior protection for the crown with its built in function pusher. The front areas of the pushers are covered with rubber pads to ensure slip-free usage in any weather condition – even with thick mountaineering-gloves on.

The open worked dial allows one to admire a clear view of the movement’s structure through the sapphire crystal, while the movement part’s black PVD-coating provides a high contrast with the luminous indexes and newly designed skeleton hands for a maximum of readability in any situation.



The Movement

The newly developed Calibre 781 reflects the mastery of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking in full bloom. Even with the complexity of 566 parts, it remains a precise and reliable movement with chronograph and GMT functions in which the latest of the manufacture’s developments have been incorporated. With its range of application in mind, sports and exploration, the watch is built to resist extreme conditions – from the boiling heat of hot deserts to icy storms on high mountains – thereby delivering the highest possible levels of precision and reliability.

For the watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre such a development does mean more than just big casing and thick sapphire glass: The experts decided on creating a check list on how to tackle the issue of ruggedness from the very interior of the movement. As major points for the construction they considered water resistance, shock resistance and the shielding of magnetic influence.



Chronograph function

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 781 is a chronograph with its function regulated by a column wheel, where precise start- and stop functions are guaranteed through a vertical clutch system. As it is specially designed for long-term measurement of events (such as timing of mountaineering ascents), the watchmakers and designers decided upon a digital minute counter which they placed in a clearly visible 12-o’clock-position on the dial as mentioned above.

Second Time Zone

For an explorer’s watch, a second time zone is a must – and as such a main feature of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic. As a tradition for Jaeger-LeCoultre movements, the second time zone – the home time – is indicated by a second hour hand from the center, with a 24-hour indication at the 6 o’clock position. It can be adjusted through the crown after pushing the function selector twice and then turning the crown to set the hour hand.





Technical Details

The large balance wheel has a moment of inertia of 11.5 mg cm2, enough for it to beat at a steady 28,800 v.p.h. with only minor disturbances in case of shocks. It is equipped with variable inertia screws. No index is used to adjust the beat-rate, for it could slip from position after a shock. The stud holder is held by two screws, which – once set – are fixed under all circumstances. The hairspring itself has a special protection device that limits the motion of the spring during periods of extreme situations, such as shocks. The balance bridge is fixed on two support points for extra strength. All components of the escapement and the hairspring are made of silicium, a material the watchmakers favor due to its lightness, sturdiness and antimagnetic properties.

As for its performance, the automatic rotor, mounted on lubrication free ceramic ball bearings, winds the barrel of the watch unidirectional to a maximum of 60 hours of power reserve. All components of the movement are highly decorated or PVD finished and of course, the watch has endured Jaeger-LeCoultre’s demanding 1000 hours test to certify its reliance under all conditions.

Magnetism


A magnetic field is a force field that exists in man made situations where electric current is flowing through wires and circuits as well as in nature. Magnetization can greatly interfere with the timing of a watch if it’s most sensitive parts – any element of the escapement and the going train – contain parts made of steel. Even in our everyday surroundings a watch has to withstand a number of hidden magnetic fields. Mobile phones, computers, TV-screens and loudspeakers are just a selection of those dangers. To make matters worse, a watch not only reacts to magnetic fields, but accumulates them – a process called residual magnetism; even if it is taken out of the magnetic surrounding, the watch can still retains a kind of ‘magnetic memory’.

For the creation of a watch with a maximum of reliability it is necessary to shield its movement from the influx of external magnetic fields. Since the watchmakers and designers at Jaeger- LeCoultre were looking for a sophisticated solution to their problem, the usual case-within-case construction was out of the question due to its bulkiness and weight. Apart from these issues, such a case for the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic would require not just two but in total nine case openings, which the watchmakers found impossible to magnetically isolate.

However, they finally found a very contemporary solution: A non-magnetic escapement that ensures the protection of the most sensitive part of the watch movement to magnetic influences: silicium, the material of choice when it comes to shielding an escapement. In addition to its antimagnetic properties, it also offers many advantages such as not requiring oil, low running friction, high precision and lightness.

Jaeger-LeCoultre also invested a lot of research into the materials of the going train. Together with scientists, the watchmaker-specialists found the solution in the choice of a special alloy for the going train that leads to the escapement. Through this they could greatly reduce the threat of the movement becoming magnetized. Equipped with these materials, the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic withstands magnetic fields of up to 240 Gauss – four times higher than the norm according to DIN and higher than any other mechanical chronograph that exists – all without the use of a bulky container around the movement. The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic therefore by far exceeds the demands of the ISO Norm 9010 which calls a wristwatch antimagnetic if it is able to withstand a field of 60 Gauss.



The strap-system

A newly designed interchangeable strap system is operated by lifting a small covering on the case back behind the strap. Through sliding it open the straps can easily be changed. The double alligator strap stand for the highest possible reliability and a patented notched binding system allows perfect ergonomics. The double pin buckle enables the wearer to fine-tune the strap length even in the distance between two holes.



A second version of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2Apart from the rugged Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 with its TiVan15 casing, which is christened “Tribute to Geophysic” as a reminder of its famous ancestor, the manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre launches a second exclusive model which distinguishes itself from the first one in two ways: On the outside it has an 18-carat-red gold chassis to hold the TiVan15 watch case, which makes it the more glamorous of the two watches – but heavier as well. This watch case – due to its use of precious metals – provides a different surrounding for the high tech movement and the red gold chassis clearly indicates that the watch is dedicated to a more modest usage in less harsh conditions.

The second difference is the Calibre 780, which is an offspring of the aforementioned 781 without the antimagnetic properties. Still all the other functions, the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 shares with the “Triute to Geophysics” version, make it the perfect choice for any adventurer who longs for a bit more glamour on his wrist.



Historical BackgroundInternational Geophysics Year

Research technologies and tools had advanced greatly in the 1950’s, allowing scientists a scope of investigation without precedent. With cosmic ray recorders, spectroscopes, and radio equipped balloons, the upper atmosphere could be reached for exploration, while the first electronic computers were able to analyze large data sets and the use of rockets allowed a glimpse into the world high above the surface.

However the data culled from these experiments most often proved insufficient for scientists to proceed with their research. Calls for more, better and improved data of the earth’s boundaries in 1952 led the International Council of Scientific Unions to the proposing of a series of global geophysical activities in the period from July 1957 to December 1958. The idea of the International Geophysical Year (IGY) was born: To measure the world.

And it intended to allow scientists from around the world to take part in a series of coordinated observations of various geophysical phenomena. 67 countries had become involved “to observe geophysical phenomena and to secure data from all parts of the world; to conduct this effort on a coordinated basis by fields, and in space and time, so that results could be collated in a meaningful manner”, as the American National Academy of Sciences stated.

IGY activities spanned the globe from pole to pole. Much work was carried out in the arctic and equatorial regions. IGY research contributed to improve meteorological prediction, advances in glacier- analysis and understanding of seismological phenomena. The most sensational of scientific work were the space programs of the USA and the USSR: Sputnik 1 and the establishment of the NASA are vivid reminders of the International Geophysical Year.

In the spirit of those advances in geophysical sciences, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the Chronomètre Geophysic. It was intended to perfectly suit the demands of that day’s researchers, whether on polar stations or in laboratories, the watchmaker’s idea was to provide a watch that could withstand all trials. Therefore the chronometer worthy timepiece was equipped with a casing to make it resistant to magnetic fields, water and shocks.

This was honored by the City of Geneva, which choose the watch as a presentation gift in 1958 for two US citizens for their contribution to the IGY: Chosen were two men that by all means pushed the borders of knowledge and proved the unproven: the commanders of the submarines U.S.S. “Nautilus”, the first submarine to complete a submerged transit across the North Pole, and U.S.S “Skate” that operated under the North Pole ice, surfacing nine times through the ice and became the second ship to reach the Pole.





Chronomètre Geophysic

With its new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic, Jaeger-LeCoultre not only shows its mastery in the creation of sporting watches for extreme conditions, the manufactory also pays tribute to its own heritage and has taken a big step in the quest for the perfect rugged timepiece suitable for exploration.

When in 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Chronomètre Geophysic, the mother of all rugged sports watches from the Grande Maison, the quest was opened on how to design a watch that would suit the demands of scientists and engineers, who long for a timepiece with outstanding precision and performance even in the worst surroundings. Jaeger-LeCoultre answered with the creation of the Chronomètre Geophysic, a wristwatch that withstood magnetic fields up to 600 gauss – at that time an extraordinary quantity – as well as an outstanding shock resistance system.

However, this was only the beginning. In 2002, Jaeger-LeCoultre took up the idea of sports watches in a new line called Master Compressor, in which it chases the pinnacle of rugged watches with up-to-date technical innovations: In 2002 the Master Compressor with compression keys for easy and secure locking system of the crown was launched; in 2005 followed the Master Compressor Extreme with inventive shock-absorber system; 2007 Jaeger- LeCoultre reopened the field of diver’s watches with a mechanical depth gauge in the Master Compressor Diving; 2007 they revealed their state of the art in mechanical watchmaking with the lubrication-free movement of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB, a movement housed in a specially designed, shock-resistant case – the first ever watch to eliminate the problems of temperature-sensitivity of watchmaking-oils. And therefore another giant step towards the perfection of timekeeping.

Some of those watches have accomplished exceptional achievements in extreme conditions. The Master Compressor Diving GMT for example went down to a depth of 1,080 meters off the coast of Hawaii, pinned to a submarine to prove its sturdiness in a place where no diver can go.



The Geophysic Expedition to the Himalayas

In the spirit of this watchmaking past, Jaeger-LeCoultre, even before the launch of the new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic, proves the watch’s sturdiness by sending it to the great outdoors, celebrating the spirit of its ancestor and the extraordinary functionality of its Master Compressor Extreme Line.

In the autumn of 2009, as a tribute to Geophysic, Jaeger-LeCoultre outfitted the “Antoine LeCoultre Expedition” consisting of three exceptional mountaineers, set out to conquer a virgin summit in the Himalaya. The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic was one of the three timepieces that guided the alpinists to the summit. The team consists of renowned Swiss climber Stephané Schaeffer and the Pakistani Sherpa Little Karim and the Nepalese world famous Apa Sherpa, who tackled the Mount Everest 19 times. They set out to climb a technically highly demanding 6589 meters peak in the backyard of Mount Everest. After a grueling climb – at the base camp already they had to force themselves through over 40 Centimeters of newly fallen snow – and under constant thread of avalanches, they reached the peak on the 22nd November 2009. To honor history and high horology, they then christened the Mountain “Antoine LeCoultre’s Peak”.




For the climbers, who rely on the precision of a 1958 Chronomètre Geophysic watch as well as a Master Compressor Extreme LAB and the new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic, the aim is not only to reach the summit, but to do so in the adventurous way of traditional “fair means” – classical mountaineering style. This concept of course fits neatly into Jaeger-LeCoultre’s tradition to combine the classical concepts of horology with modern technology for the demands of today’s world.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Chronomètre Geophysic launched in 1958, has set off the Master Compressor line with its credo of the watch was “shockproof, antimagnetic and water resistant” –technical features that can all be defined as 100 percent the goal of any Master Compressor timepiece.

With today’s new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic, Jaeger-LeCoultre proves impressively that its watches are made for the extremes, a field requiring technical mastery, innovation spirit and high watchmaking – precisely the DNA of the Master Compressor line.





Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2: Technical characteristics

The new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 is a mechanical Chronograph with GMT-function, especially developed for use in the most extreme conditions. The chronograph has a digital number display and a radial power reserve for easy readability. It is the first multi function watch outfitted to resist magnetic fields. The movement construction provides this anti magnetic shielding through the use of a silicone escapement and a special alloy for the gears and trains close to the escapement. As a member of the Master Compressor line, which stands for diehard- sports watches with innovative functions and thoroughly tested mechanisms, the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 is outfitted with state of the art technology, the latest in materials science and watchmaking development.

Movement:
Mechanical automatic Calibres 780 und 781, developed and manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Parts: 569 (Calibre 780), 566 (Calibre 781),
Diameter: 33.8 millimeters,
Height: 9.8 millimeters,
Power Reserve: 60 hours with one barrel,
Base plate made of nickel,
Antimagnetic up to 240 Gauss (Calibre 781),
Test: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1000 hours test

Functions:
Hours, minutes, and small second’s hand (as function indication),
Second time zone (with 24 hours counter) adjustable in hour-steps, date,
Independent second’s stop,
Function selector,
Chronograph with digital minute display,
Semicircular radial power reserve indication

Chronograph:
Digital jumping minute counter with two discs,
Central second’s hand,
Accuracy: up to 1/8 of a second,
Counting up to 24 hours,
Column wheel mechanism,
Vertical clutch system,
Two pushbuttons with rubber-covered, L-shaped security arms
Function selector:
Ceramic crown with integrated pushbutton to select three functions via column wheel:
1) winding; 2) setting of date and second time zone; 3) setting the time

Escapement:
Beat rate: 28,800 half-beats per hour,
Large balance wheel with a moment of inertia of 1.5 mg cm2 and variable inertia screws,
Balance bridge: fixed to two support points, stud held by two screws,
Protection device for limitation of the hairspring movement,
Escapement made of amagnetic silicium (Calibre 781)

Automatic winding:
Unidirectional automatic winding to up to 60 hours of power reserve, depicted by semicircular
radial power reserve indication,
Rotor: mounted on lubrication free ceramic ball bearings,
Shape: rotor mass made of platinum, held by three arms

Case:
Dual-Ring-Case: Sandwich structured case with carrier-chassis and movement container,
Components: 143,
Black zirconium ceramic bezel,
Sapphire glass on front and back,
Zirconium-ceramic crown,
Movement-container made of TiVan15 (exclusively used by Jaeger-LeCoultre),
Chassis materials: TiVan15 (Calibre 781) or 18 carat red gold (Calibre 780),
Diameter: 46.8 millimeters,
Height: 16.5 millimeters,
Pushbuttons with L-shaped security arms and rubber cover


Dial and Hands:
Open worked dial with bridges in black PVD coating and different areas highlighting specific
functions,
Luminescent indexes,
Newly formed skeleton hands,
Hands antimagnetic (Calibre 781)

Strap und buckle
Double Alligator leather strap,
New integrated system to change the bracelet,
New adjustable double pin buckle fixed in two positions,
Strap secured through two attachment points with further adjustment in three positions

References:
TiVan15 version (Calibre 781): Q203T470
Red gold version (Calibre 780): Q2032470




**More from Jaeger-Lecoultre :  Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Grande Tradition

PERRELET - Diamond Flower Prestige Edition

A plush atmosphere for discovering or rediscovering the Prestige Edition of the Diamond Flower collection.




 
The  "A 7002" From the Prestige Edition of the Diamond Flower collection


The Diamond Flower collection, thanks to its different versions, was awarded prizes on several occasions and voted Watch of the Year by the Swiss public in 2008. This feminine watch combines finesse and harmony, and for the first time, jewellery and watchmaking technology harmonise to give a rare and vibrant expression of time.

Based on its Double Rotor, a patented complication, the heirs of Perrelet dared to create an audacious setting. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires or emeralds go beyond the simple transformation of a watch with feminine jewels. The visible rotor on the dial, sculpted for the occasion with lotus flowers, is linked and perfectly synchronised with the oscillating weight and supplies additional energy to the winding mechanism. Every woman thus animates her watch by her own movements.

Among the different versions proposed, there are several exclusive treasures that only certain initiates will be familiar with. A Prestige Edition with 7 interpretations, which are completely exceptional.

The jeweller’s craft is an art, and as with a jewellery arrangement, the setting of the dial, the bezel and the lugs endows each of its works with its own character. Rubies reflect passion, emeralds denote hope, sapphires represent the infinite skies and ocean and diamonds and baguette diamonds stand for eternity. This panoply of contrasts accompanies passionate women with a rare elegance. Visual appeal and its emotional impact will bring the subtle touch of refinement, which will seduce the women who are searching for exclusivity.

The spirit of this collection is on the move, as Perrelet will be presenting a preview of a new Diamond Flower duo in black and white ceramic at the next Basel Fair, from 18 to 25 of March next.

Epicureans take note!

DIAMOND FLOWER PRESTIGE EDITION


 
"A7002" 


Movement
Automatic P-181 Double Rotor, Perrelet exclusivity
especially decorated “Perrelet” tapestry’

Power Reserve
40 hours

Vibrations per hour
28’800 (4Hz)

Rubies
21

Case
Ø 38 mm
Case material Rose gold (4N) 18 carats, bezel, lugs and sides with diamonds
Anti-glare sapphire (front & back)

Water resistance
5 ATM
Setting 593 diamonds VS1, TW (3.41 cts)

Dial
Chocolate mother-of-pearl with diamonds

Bracelet
Chocolate croco
Stainless steel deployment buckle with rose fold (4N) cap


 
"A7007"


Movement
Automatic P-181 Double Rotor, Perrelet exclusivity
especially decorated “Perrelet” tapestry’

Power Reserve
40 hours

Vibrations per hour
28’800 (4Hz)

Rubies
21

Case
Ø 38 mm
Case material White gold, bezel and lugs with diamonds
Anti-glare sapphire (front & back)

Water resistance
5 ATM

Setting
1045 diamonds VS1, TW (10.48 cts) including 88 baguettes
Dial Paved

Bracelet
White croco
Stainless steel deployment buckle


 
"A7005"


Movement
Automatic P-181 Double Rotor, Perrelet exclusivity
especially decorated “Perrelet” tapestry’

Power Reserve
40 hours

Vibrations per hour
28’800 (4Hz)

Rubies
21

Case
Ø 38 mm

Case
material White gold, bezel and lugs with rubies
Anti-glare sapphire (front & back)

Water resistance
5 ATM

Setting
238 rubies (2.43 cts)

Dial
Paved with 519 diamonds VS1, TW (1.4 ct)

Bracelet
Red crocro
Stainless steel deployment buckle