12.19.2009

The Aquaracer Calibre S Chronograph Receives Popular Science Award



The Calibre S is internationally recognized as a truly revolutionary timepiece. It would have earned another laurel, the 2007 “Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix” award in the Electronic Watch category, if the category hadn't been cancelled because there were only seven nominees instead of the required 10. So winning a place on Popular Science’s "Best of What's New 07" lists is a spectacular reward, as it proves that the Calibre S also represents a true revolution in the broader world of advanced technologies.

Each year, the editors of Popular Science review thousands of products in search of the top 100 technological innovations of the year –- breakthrough products and technologies that represent a significant leap in their categories. The winners are featured in the December 2007 issue of Popular Science, the most widely read issue of the year. Founded in 1872, Popular Science is the world’s largest science and technology magazine with a circulation of 1.3 million and 6.8 million monthly readers.

The Calibre S, which was featured in a full-page article in the June 2007 issue of Popular Science, was described in the Best of What’s New’07 issue as follows:

"It might look like a mechanical spring-and-gear watch, but underneath, a microchip allows the Aquaracer to do more timekeeping with less clutter on the face. With traditional watches, adding functions requires added gears and springs, as well a squeezing in tiny, hard-to-read dials. But the microprocessor in the Calibre S can keep track of multiple functions at once, so the main dial can alternate among showing, say, the time of day, ticking off time in stopwatch mode, and running backward in countdown.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre S: The most elegant, high-performance sports chronograph ever conceived

Neither quartz nor automatic and unlike any other chronograph ever built, the revolutionary Calibre S represents the “hybrid” fusion of mechanical watchmaking sophistication with the ultimate quartz precision. Designed, developed, and manufactured by TAG Heuer in its atelier in Sion, Switzerland, the Calibre S has 230 highly complex mechanical components and 5 bi-directional micro-engines that are mechanically independent yet synchronized, making it far more complicated than a traditional quartz movement (which typically has only 30-40 components). The unique engineering measures and displays watch and chronograph functions with the same full-sized central hands (hour, minute, second) by a simple press on the polished pushbutton crown. This eliminates the two or three-counter configuration of traditional chronographs, and is a far more intuitive way to read the chronograph time. The result is unrivalled ease-of-use and readability.

Equipped with its revolutionary new movement, the Aquaracer Calibre S was originally designed for sailing races. Patented for its bi-directional engines, reading format, and avant-garde design concept, it offers very simple, stylish and easy-to-read information displays. Time, Chronograph, and Regatta function are displayed, using the central hands (hour, minute, second), making it the most easy-to-read chronograph in the world.

Available with a blue or anthracite dial, it operates the three modes by a simple press on the crown. A major breakthrough in watchmaking and a prestigious timepiece for everyday wear. Another milestone in the TAG Heuer tradition of innovation!

V4 MAKES THE GRADE AT LUXURY WATCH AWARDS


Part 1:

The TAG Heuer MONACO V4, the world's first watch with high-yield mechanical belt drives, was one of three finalists in the Grand Prix de l'Horlogerie de Genève’s highly competitive “Haute Complication” category.

The Grand Prix de l'Horlogerie de Genève is the Swiss watch industry’s most prestigious award competition. TAG Heuer has been singled out six times in nine years for its engineering and design prowess.

“I’m happy for our R&D teams, who have been working hard on the V4 project for years. When we unveiled it as a Concept Watch at BaselWorld in 2004, people were very impressed but few thought we’d ever get beyond the prototype stage. Now here we are, five years later, winning industry recognition for the fully realized rollout model, which, I have to say, is even more amazing — both technically and in terms of style and design — than the prototype” said Jean-Christophe Babin, the CEO and President of TAG Heuer.

Winner in its concept stage of many design prizes and awards (including Wallpaper Magazine's "Watch of the Year" Award and Popular Science's "Best of What's New" Awards), the Monaco V4 is the revolutionary new incarnation of the iconic Monaco — the audacious, square-faced watch first seen on Steve McQueen’s wrist in the 1970 race classic film Le Mans.

Handcrafted in industrial-grade platinum in an exclusive edition of 150 pieces, the double-patented TAG Heuer MONACO V4 completely breaks with watchmaking tradition. Like the Swiss legend that created it — the world leader in luxury sports watches and chronographs since 1860 — its true sources of power are audacity, performance and a passionate devotion to the avant-garde.

This comes on the eve of the 150th anniversary of the TAG Heuer brand,” said Babin. “A podium appearance for our latest leading-edge creation — I couldn’t imagine a more perfect birthday present!




Part 2:

Monaco V4
For its 150th anniversary, TAG Heuer brings to commercial reality its boldest breakthrough innovation since the 1/100th mechanical chronograph



The first advanced integrated mechanical movement of the third millennium — and probably the 21st century’s first major contribution to watchmaking innovation — the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 represents a complete break with tradition and the audacious next step in mechanical movement engineering. This belt-driven wonderment, first unveiled as a Concept Watch at BaselWorld in 2004, is now industrialized and entirely hand manufactured in TAG Heuer La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop in an exclusive luxury edition of only 150 pieces in platinum.

TAG Heuer in History: Pioneer of Swiss watchmaking since 1860
For 150 years, TAG Heuer has challenged traditions, defied rules, and set major Swiss watchmaking milestones. The world leader in luxury sports watches and chronographs since 1860, it maintains this preeminence by ceaselessly reinventing itself, and, in the process, changing the world of watchmaking — revolutionizing what watches and chronographs can do, how they work, and the way they look.



In 2004, the company unveiled the Monaco V4 Concept Watch, the world’s first watch with belt drives, linear mass and ball bearings. In only 5 short years, the dream comes true… On the eve of its 150th anniversary, TAG Heuer has achieved the unbelievable, unveiling to the world what many industry insiders said would never see the light of day: The Monaco V4 in commercial production. Double-patented Monaco V4, 100% TAG Heuer-made, outdoes its own legacy. A bold technical masterwork unlike any watch ever seen or imagined, it both exemplifies luxury Swiss watchmaking tradition at its finest, and completely turns that heritage upside down and inside out.

Once again, with this boldest creation yet, TAG Heuer stakes claim to the leading edge of design innovation and honors its world-famous motto: “Swiss Avant-Garde since 1860.”



TAG Heuer and the MONACO V4: Revolutionizing the fundamental principles of mechanical watchmaking

Transmission

Until the V4, all modern mechanical movements, regardless of their complications, were generally based on “classic” watchmaking components, most of which date back to the 18th and 19th century. The principal components of this traditional system are: an energy reserve, by means one or several springs; a transmission, using gears; and a regulatory function, usually organized around a recoil escapement.

Gear transmission and automatic rewinding: the V4 team set these aside and started from scratch. The result is a complete paradigm-shift, 2 worldwide patents, and a completely new generation of mechanical movements.

In a world first, TAG Heuer award-winning team of watch masters and engineers replaced the pinions and wheels of the traditional mechanical movement with a belt-driven transmission: a high-yield relay of 5 notched micro drive-belts whose tension is controlled by 2 turnbuckles. The transmission belts in polyether block amide have a 0.07mm section, about the same size as a single human hair, and are 10 times smaller than any belt ever manufactured. Unlike a traditional calibre, this modular synchronous drive belt system requires no extra gears to send motion from one point to another. More efficient — less vibrations, optimizing movement — and much easier to maintain, it allows power to be transmitted wherever it is required, allowing for more complications, with no obstacles.

Energy

The TAG Heuer team then garnered a second worldwide patent by revolutionizing the oscillating mass, which traditionally is superimposed on the movement and moves in a rotational manner. The Monaco V4 is the world’s first wristwatch with a linear mass, which is mounted on the world’s smallest ball bearings (2.2 to 4 mm diameter and a thickness of 0.6 to 1 mm). The 12g tungsten ingot doesn’t move back and forth but up and down on a track between the 2 pairs of v-shaped barrels in series, set in parallel and inclined at +/- 13°. A gear system on the long side of the weight engages a cogwheel and converts the linear motion into a rotating movement. Each barrel series stores 450g of energy for a total strength of 900g.



The Monaco V4: An avant-garde design for an avant-garde movement

Winner in its concept stage of many design prizes and awards, the Monaco V4 is the revolutionary new incarnation of the iconic Monaco — the audacious, square-faced watch first seen on Steve McQueen’s wrist in the 1970 race classic film Le Mans.

The original Monaco’s big, squared-off case captured the imagination of a generation and signaled a complete break with conventional watchmaking aesthetics. It thus made sense to borrow from this iconic heritage to showcase TAG Heuer’s newest breakthrough in high-end luxury design. Like the original Monaco, the world’s first automatic chronograph with a micro-rotor (launched in 1969 by Jack Heuer, today TAG Heuer’s Honorary Chairman), the powerful new movement housed in the Monaco V4 is a tribute to the high-tech, high-performance world of motor racing.

The name derives from the V-shaped platinum main plate on which the movement’s four spring barrels are mounted. The 2-by-2 belt series on ball bearings are angled at +/- 13 degrees, and look like the cylinders in a high-end motor-racing engine.



The Monaco V4’s avant-garde look outside matches the revolutionary movement inside. Every complex surface and dihedral angle is fine polished to the highest haute-horlogerie standards. The beveled and arched sapphire crystal, manufactured in 3-D, curves down to join the sides. The case is in platinum 950, as is the caseback, which is trisected with 3 glass apertures. There is no reading dial per se — the polished beveled indexes are fixed directly to the bridges, with the small second hand distinctively off-centered at 4 o’clock. The ball bearing systems are visible on both sides, while the movement’s unique escapement and 3 transmission belts can be seen from the front, and the 2 barrel drives from the back. The stylish strap is in large-scale alligator, hand-stitched with a titanium insert. The overall design is breathtakingly new, unlike anything ever seen, yet the influence of Steve McQueen’s square-faced Monaco is apparent at a glance, as is the spirit and DNA. This is what truly drives TAG Heuer and the Monaco V4: audacity, performance, and a passionate devotion to the avant-garde.



TAG Heuer and the Monaco V4: Pioneering new forms of human and technological innovation

Above all, creating an entirely new paradigm for mechanical movement dynamics requires men and women of vision and passion, committed to pushing beyond limits.

TAG Heuer’s best engineers and watchmakers, working with the inventor Jean-François Ruchonnet, begun delving into the fundamental concepts of mechanical watch movement, under the strictest terms of confidentiality. Then the Monaco V4 story became a real human saga involving an extraordinary team of dedicated thinkers, watch masters, engineers and craftsmen working in Switzerland but also collaborating with a unique international network drawn from renowned high-tech companies, universities and research institutes.

The techniques used in the design, prototyping and production of the V4 are the same as those used to develop complex aerospace systems. Tools, techniques and expertise were drawn from an eclectic fusion of disciplines, such as the automobile and IT industries, applied mathematics, chemistry, climatology, computer engineering and micro-mechanical sciences. New TAG Heuer-designed machines and methods were specially created, including proprietary software (TAG Heuer is a pioneer in 3D modeling and digital synthesis), automated micro-couplers and rheologically controlled high-pressure injectors.

Today, the Monaco V4 are hand-assembled at TAG Heuer by “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” watch master Denis Badin, thus bringing the timepiece full circle: from the most cutting-edge techniques of the present era to the most time-honored traditions of artisanal craftsmanship.

This exclusive luxury edition of only 150 pieces in platinum 950, launched at the occasion of the 150th anniversary, will be sold at 100,000 CHF.






The TAG Heuer Monaco V4 watch
Limited edition of only 150 pieces in platinum

Reference : WAW2170.FC6261

Movement : Automatic Belt-driven transmission watch
Tungstene ingot linear mass
2 pairs of barrels in series, set in parallel and linked by belts

Dial : 7 silver fine-brushed bridges with “haute horlogerie” hand-finishings
Escapement and belt-driven transmission visible from the front
Hand-applied faceted indexes
Faceted polished Rhodium plated blue minute and hour hands with luminescent markers
Blue small second hand at 4 o’clock
Blue “V4” engraving

Case : Polished Platinum 950 case
Case diameter: 40.5 mm
Beveled sapphire crystal glass with double-sided anti-reflective treatment to ensure the best readability
Sapphire case back in 3 sections
Polished white gold crown at 3 o’clock
Water resistance: 50 meters
Monochrome blue engraved TAG Heuer logo

Strap : Blue alligator strap with hand-sewn blue stitching
Folding buckle with safety pushbuttons in Platinum 950

Availability

1st batch (75 pieces) : November 2009 (ex La Chaux-de-Fonds)
2nd batch (75 pieces) : June 2010 (ex La Chaux-de-Fonds)
Estimated SRP : CHF 100’000




Questions & Answers to Jean-Christophe Babin
President and CEO of TAG Heuer



1. What is the role of the Monaco V4 in the TAG Heuer universe, what were the sources of its inspiration, and where does the name V4 come from?

We have enjoyed a privileged position in the avant-garde sports watches and chronographs market since 1860, mainly because we innovate more than any other watch brand. We are the only brand that can offer electronic and mechanical chronograph accuracy to 1/10th, 1/100th and 1/1,000th of a second. Technology, design and innovation are the three major components of our brand’s DNA, and it is through these that we push Swiss watchmaking traditions ever forward.

The inspiration for the Monaco V4 is the high-end super sports car — a territory that TAG Heuer has historically occupied since 1911, when it created the "Time of Trip," the world’s first dashboard chronograph, followed by the "Autavia" dashboard stopwatch in 1933, and carrying on right through to today, with our official partnership with Mercedes-Benz in GT with the SLR and with McLaren in Formula 1. With its century and a half history at the avant-garde of Swiss watch design and engineering, the brand TAG Heuer is also in itself a source of inspiration.

The name V4 is derived from the four spring barrels of the movement, which are mounted on a V-shaped platinum main plate angled at +/-13 degrees, like the cylinders of a high-performance racing engine. The principle of a 5 notched micro-belt transmission has its roots in automotive design, where for example, in the combustion cycle, the distributor belt synchronizes the movement of the engine’s valves and pistons

2. Why did you choose the Monaco series for the V4? Does it fit?

It seemed quite logical to follow the Monaco’s resolutely innovative heritage, which exemplifies TAG Heuer’s desire to always push beyond the limits of traditional watchmaking. The original Monaco of 1969 had a unique shape that completely broke with conventional watchmaking aesthetics. Equipped with the Chronomatic Caliber 11, the first automatic chronograph movement with micro-rotor, the Monaco embodied our motto: "TAG Heuer Swiss Avant-Garde Since 1860".

I love the Monaco! It is mythical, a true icon, and that is why we have not dared to touch it for years. It reflects the aesthetic and pioneering instincts of our brand, which continues to generate revolutionary ideas and then transform them into products. With the Monaco V4, TAG Heuer seeks to rethink, redesign and reinvent the mechanical movement. It is a perfect example of our commitment to innovation. As for the future of the brand, my motto is: take the best of the past, add to it the best of today, and see where it leads!

3. You presented the Monaco V4 at BaselWorld 2004, and you’re only now launching it, 5 years later, in 2009. Why did it take so long?

The Monaco V4 in 2004 was presented as a Concept Watch, which means that, as in the automotive industry, it was designed to outline the future development of TAG Heuer. In the world of watchmaking, the average time needed to develop a new movement from first draft to final product is 3 to 5 years, so with the V4 – which represents a genuine revolution in terms of mechanical watch movement — we are in the same timeframe. We did not want to compromise the quality and reliability of the product by bringing it into the market too quickly. The future customers of the Monaco V4 demands the best, and we must always go beyond their expectations.

4. At a time when all other companies are investing in the mass production of their own movements, why adopt a different strategy by launching a movement such as V4, which will only be produced at low volumes? Will you use this new movement in other watches in the future?

We never intended to make a mass-produced movement. This is a very complicated watch — an innovative and prestigious movement that showcases our expertise in high-end watchmaking and engineering. The V4 movement is not intended to replace other movements we use in "commercial" watches. Our single driving goal has been to manufacture this unique series of 150 luxury pieces.

5. Where are the components manufactured? The V4 belts, for example?

In addition to our new manufacturing unit in Cornol, which is dedicated to our new Calibre 1887 movement, TAG Heuer has a manufacturing and assembly facility there for its major complications, and for the manufacture of many V4 components. However, the workshop does not have the machinery and processes needed to manufacture belts or ball bearings. The belts are manufactured externally, as are other Calibre V4 components. The names and location of our sub-contractors are confidential, but what I will tell you is that the belts are not made by anyone in the watch industry!

6. Is the movement assembled in your facilities?

Yes, the entire Calibre V4 is assembled and tested by us, i.e., T1 and T2. Our master watchmaker was awarded the prestigious title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2004. The platinum cases are manufactured in our Cornol facility.

7. Who will buy the Monaco V4?

The Monaco V4 will be produced in platinum in a limited edition of 150 pieces. It’s more a collector’s piece that a watch for keeping time — in fact, when you look at it, you sometimes even forget to pay attention to what the time is!

This world premiere will draw collectors and watch enthusiasts who enjoy strong and innovative designs as well as watches with major complications. TAG Heuer is turning towards more demanding customers, those accustomed to the quality of finish only found at the most prestigious levels of Swiss watchmaking. These customers are primarily attracted to TAG Heuer because of its breakthrough innovations in mechanical movement design and engineering. TAG Heuer already has many followers, as evidenced by the brand’s fan blogs and Facebook friends.

8. Which distribution policy do you envisage for this limited series?

These 150 luxury platinum models are truly exceptional. Given the limited quantity, the Monaco V4 will only be made available at select points of sale in our global sales network.

Questions & responses of Guy Semon
TAG Heuer V.P. Sciences & Engineering

1. What makes the Monaco V4 so unique? What are its features? What makes this watch different from other complication watches?

Like a car engine, the fundamental mechanical factors in a watch are: transmission, friction and power. It is from this premise that the team of engineers and watchmakers at TAG Heuer created new principles that genuinely break with conventional watchmaking. In the Calibre V4 movement, the gear and pinion part of a traditional mechanical movement’s transmission is replaced by three belts. In addition, two fitted belts carry out the barrel coupling, on a 13° incline. And finally, the spring barrels have a linear tungsten mass that oscillates on a plane between the two pairs of cylinders.

2. The Monaco V4 involved a great effort in terms of research and development and has revolutionized the watchmaking industry. What are the impacts for TAG Heuer?

To create a movement like the Monaco V4, you have to entirely rethink mechanical watch architecture — above and beyond the technical process required to manufacture a very high complication that will meet TAG Heuer’s very stringent quality criteria. This process has helped make the Monaco V4 the first watch with major complications that can be worn in all sports, including extreme sports. The entire study, from prototype to experimentation, was performed by an R&D team dedicated to the project. This team is now the Movement Research department, and is already working on revolutionary new developments and innovations. TAG Heuer is currently the only manufacturer capable, at very short notice, of developing any complication and innovative architecture it wishes. To achieve this, TAG Heuer has developed its own calculation, modeling and simulation tools.

3. You took charge of R&D at TAG Heuer in 2004. The development of the V4 was a real technical challenge, but what about the human challenge?

The design of the V4 has nothing to do with existing principles of watchmaking. We started with a blank slate and had to invent a completely new architecture, overcome the problem of 13° angles, discover a way of winding 4 barrels with a linear mass... We also had to develop manufacturing processes for belts, some with metal strands. Making a V4 required conceptual data models based on complex physics and mathematical models. The design and implementation of the V4 involved a variety of fields related to engineering and metallurgy in particular, as well as mechanics, digital and formal programming constraints...

4. Are there significant differences between the Concept Watch and this year’s series launch?

There is a huge difference between the prototype and the commercial version, particularly in terms of the reliability and quality control standards required by TAG Heuer. How the Monaco V4 was designed in 2004 was not compatible with large-scale production. We had to rethink it entirely, and completely rebuild it. In a little over 2 years, the construction of the new V4 movement was finalized. We also presented several operating prototypes at Baselworld 2007.

Fundamentally, the construction of the new movement is different from the Concept Watch in that the wheels have been replaced by belts, and the energy produced by the linear oscillating mass is stored in 4 barrels in 2 by 2 series. However, the aesthetics is totally faithful to the Concept Watch.

TAG HEUER CELEBRATES DOUBLE ANNIVERSARY IN STYLE AT THE McLAREN TECHNOLOGY CENTER


Motor-racing greats Lewis Hamilton joined Vodafone McLaren Mercedes Team Principal Martin Whitmarsh, McLaren Automotive Chairman Ron Dennis, TAG Heuer Honorary Chairman Jack Heuer, TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Christophe Babin and more than 120 international journalists at the McLaren Technology Centre (MTC) on Wednesday to celebrate TAG Heuer’s 150th anniversary and the 25th year of its winning partnership with McLaren in F1.

Long-time TAG Heuer Ambassador Lewis Hamilton, wearing his 2009 driving suit and helmet, marked the quarter century in style by arriving at the party behind the wheel of a 1986 F1 McLaren race car, once driven by world champion Alain Prost.

Guests at the lavish cocktail and dinner party at the Sir Norman Foster-designed Centre were given a sneak preview of two new TAG Heuer creations and complimentary copies of the just-released TAG Heuer: 150 Years, a beautifully illustrated commemorative book from Editions Assouline.

In over 200 pages, TAG Heuer: 150 Years outlines the watchmaking brand’s unique trajectory from the small, artisanal workshop of Edouard Heuer in the Swiss Jura to world leader in luxury sports watches, chronographs and professional sports timekeeping. The book was presented by Edouard Heuer’s great-grandson, Jack Heuer, TAG Heuer’s Honorary Chairman and one of the watch industry’s most brilliant innovators.

“We are of course proud of our accomplishments but also grateful to have so much to celebrate,” said TAG Heuer CEO and President Jean-Christophe Babin, who opened the festivities with 2008 FIA World Drivers’ Champion and longtime TAG Heuer Brand Ambassador Lewis Hamilton. “A century and a half of pioneering innovation at the avant-garde of Swiss engineering and design, and a quarter-century with McLaren — one of the longest-running sponsorship agreements between a brand and a racing team in the history of Formula One.”

TAG Heuer’s partnership with McLaren, begun in 1985, is one of the most successful in sports, with six FIA World Constructors’ Championship titles and nine FIA World Drivers’ Championship titles to its name. TAG Heuer, an active participant in the McLaren Technology Centre, is also involved in the Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren super sportscar projects and timekeeping tests. To date, TAG Heuer and its partners have developed 6 exclusive SLR chronographs, each a stellar work of design and function reflecting the values common to both

the brand and the team: passion, performance and sporting prestige. The high-profile partnership has also helped develop the world’s most sophisticated sports timing technology.

The true stars of the party were the brand’s two latest creations, the SILVERSTONE, a “one-off” re-edition of one of TAG Heuer’s most iconic timepieces, and the CALIBRE 1887, an avant-garde chronograph movement made entirely in-house.

“TAG Heuer: 150 Years, is a wonderful tribute to our brand's history," said Jack Heuer. "And so are these two new timepieces. A stunning reissue of a great icon and a new, all-TAG Heuer movement – I couldn’t dream of two more spectacular birthday presents!”

12.13.2009

Hamilton U.S. 66 Power Reserve Watch Is Unexpected Treat From American Watchmaker


Hamilton is among the larger US based makers that actually makes watches you can be proud of owning. Hamilton is actually no longer US owned as it is part of the Swatch Group, but there is still a distinct American touch to each of their watches. This is as opposed to such American based watch makers as Timex and Fossil, who for the most part, don't produce watches for people who like watches. Timex recently hired a new CEO who is trying to push them upmarket, so time will tell where they end up. So while Fossil and Timex are exalted brands at the moment, Hamilton has plenty to be proud of. Focusing mostly on military and aviation watches, Hamilton occasionally releases something completely different.

With a strap looking a lot like some from a German Junghans watch, with its carbon fiber inset, the Hamilton U.S. 66 is an interesting departure from most Hamilton, or any watch for that matter. The top mounted crown with bubbled crystal connecting the shape is very similar to that used on most Urwerk watches, while at the same time looking like a different orientation on a similar crystal shape on the Cartier Roadster. Hamilton is copying these designs in a friendly manner. Another area of inspiration for the U.S. 66 watch are motorcycle and performance car cabins, dashboards, and instrument panels. Indeed, a look at the face reveals what could easily be gauge off of a high performance vehicle. Hamilton trisects the face into three styles to intensify the look. Perhaps a bit much for the eyes, but the message is clear, and it will find many fans.

The name U.S. 66 most likely refers to famous Route 66. Having traveled on this route, I can say the two lane road, while very long, is not exactly apt for performance driving, it is the most famous of American roadways not heavily infested with traffic. Route 66 does promise miles of distance for your driving or riding pleasure. To monitor the power of the mainspring, just like a fuel indicator, the Hamilton U.S. 66 comes with a power reserve as part of its ETA 2897 automatic movement. The date indicator on the top under the crystal bubble in uniquely integrated on its side, yet still readable. This is one instance where something is turned on its side and I don't mind. The power reserve fits in well, and looks to be partially skeletonized, meaning you can see some gears or exposed pieces of the movement underneath. Further, the movement is visible through the rear of the watch under another sapphire crystal.

One of most interesting elements of the Hamilton U.S. 66 Power Reserve is the watch case. An oblong oval mounted horizontally, rather than in the traditional vertical manner. I am very proud of Hamilton for doing this, because this represents the alignment that looks best while the watch is on a wrist. the horizontal position of the length of the case not only allows the watch case to be comfortably larger (it is a wide 50mm), but also visually extends the wrist, making the fit more appealing. This is an example of a watch that has been engineered to look attractive while worn, not just sitting in a case. For that reason, this is more than just a design concept watch.

Regardless, this particular edition is limited to just 2,008 pieces and with these looks I don't imagine them to last very long. No word on pricing either, but expect something in $2,000 - $4,000 range. Hamilton says that a small seconds version of the watch will also be released. I imagine that the small seconds dial will be placed where the power reserve indicator is placed on the above pictured watch. Keep your eyes out for more interesting watches from Hamilton.

Experience With the Hamilton Khaki Below Zero Chronograph Watch Reveals A Fatal Flaw

There was a lot of controversy over the three-handed Below Zero watch that Hamilton released within the last year. I spoke about it here, and suggested that it had a subtle art deco styling. A good deal of people disagreed, while many saw exactly what I was talking about. I didn't realize a little bit of art deco was something to disagree over. Suffice it to say that the original Hamilton Below Zero was an acquired, or at least subjective taste.
Now Hamilton is about to release the chronograph version of the Below Zero watch, and have made more changes than expected. Other than the addition of the chronograph via an ETA Valjoux 7750, check out the subtle changes all over the case and dial. You'll notice that the case has been "de-avant-garded" a bit. The bridge between the lugs has been removed. I actually liked this bridge a lot. It said "Hamilton" on it and look edinteresting giving the strap a nice integrated look.
Hamilton Khaki Below Zero WatchOther than the steel version you'll find a rose gold plated version. This gives that watch a nice look without putting the cost into the super high echelon. On the face the hands have been altered as well. The hour hand is now a thick pointed arrow. Actually, the transition to having chronograph dials integrated into the dial was well done, and the clutter is minimal. Although there is a fair bit of information on the dial, the hands stand out nicely, and I can find myself really trusting this watch as a timing tool. Like the original Below Zero watches, you'll get a large "0" at the top of the face instead of a "12." Nice addition of character there.

There is one major problem with the watch that I cannot seem to understand. Hamilton removed the third chronograph dial on the top that is meant to serve as a chronograph minute counter. It leaves room for the branding, but now I have no idea how to use the chronograph. You are merely left with a chronograph that counts seconds and total 30 minute increment up to 12 hours. What a serve handicap Hamilton?! Maybe I am missing something, but this is curious indeed.

One of the reasons that I like watches so much, is that I appreciate machines, or devices otherwise, that are well engineered to perform some task (well), no matter how simple. This is why we have love for sports cars, high-end audio and visual equipment, and countless other "devices;" because we appreciate the fact that they do what they were designed to do so well. For many of us, it is a life long appreciation of fine engineering. In regard to watches, I appreciate function over form almost all of the time. That is not to say I will fawn over an ugly watches, but I will always find beauty in mechanical perfection. Conversely, when a watch focuses on looks to an extent it impedes or negatively effects function, I find the value lacking. So what is the result when a watch focuses on looks over function, to an extent that is almost silly? Honestly? I get angry. I really liked the looks of the new Hamilton Below Zero watch series. I wrote about the three hand Below Zero model when it came out, and the Below Zero Chronograph. I realized that watch had potential based on the looks, but that is not all there is too it. A watch is meant to do something, not just simply look good. So living with the Hamilton Below Zero should mean that you can fully utilize its functions. At least that is what I thought.Hamilton Khaki Below Zero Watch Recently I had an opportunity to play with both the three hand and chronograph Below Zero models. The watch is nice and large, and looks rugged and stylish on the wrist, especially the three hand model. Hamilton is owned by the Swatch Group, and is really their "entry-level" nice watch.  

That is why the Hamilton line always has a broad range of designs in addition to its military inspired Khaki series. Entry level is still not cheap for most people. Keep in mind that the retail price of the rose gold plated version is $2250 plus, so a problem of this magnitude in a watch at this price is inexcusable. Honestly Hamilton, what went wrong here? You might have figured out the problem looking at the face of the chronograph. Although the watch contains the popular Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, Hamilton removes one of the chronograph counters (sub dials). It does this to allow space for the logo in the top center of the watch.  

The diagram of the typical functions of the Valjoux 7750 movement indicate that this is where the minutes counter of the chronograph lies. Meaning, this is where you can tell the elapsed minutes. The large seconds hand on the main dial indicates elapsed seconds, which the lower subdial is used to measure the hours (up to 12). Lastly, the left subsidiary dial is used for the seconds of the watch itself. In the right is a day and date display. While watch makers are free to change this around a bit, this is the full functionality of your standard Valjoux 7750.

So what does Hamilton do? They remove the minutes counter? That's right, the "working" chronograph cannot count minutes. It counts seconds and hours. This is like having a car, with a speedometer that only measures 1mph, 50mph, and 100mph. That really isn't going to be very useful for most people. Sitting there using the chronograph of the watch, I was in absolute disbelief. The store clerk didn't have much to comment except, "you know, most people don't even use the chronograph." That might be true, but if you are going to get a chronograph watch, it should at least work if and when you want to use it. I can't stress enough how much this angers me. Would this still anger me in a $100 watch? Yea, it would, but not nearly to the extent it does in a watch that costs over $2,000. Am I justified in being this irate over it? I would honestly think negatively upon the powers of perception of any person who got this watch. To own such a machine with complete disregard for its function. Let me say it again, the chronograph complication on the Hamilton Below Zero Ref. H78646733 is virtually useless, a mockery to watch lovers, and an insult to a potential owner.


Hamilton Khaki Below Zero Chronograph WatchI invite you to disagree with me, or think me anal in my analysis. This is one man's opinion about the machines he loves. Perhaps I should laugh it off, and veer from watches like this. But consider yourself the type who simply trusts that your new $2,500 watch will be on par with other $2,500 watches. Perhaps you received it as a gift from someone who didn't really take the time to think about it. This is plausible. You happily adorn your new watch only to realize the designers screwed you over. You don't spend this kind of money on watches for these disappointing surprises. What is the message you are trying to send here Hamilton? Buyer beware? No one purchasing from the Swatch Group should have to struggle with caveat emptor. If you buy a nice watch, you should never have to worry about it being designed by a complete moron.

It is not as though Hamilton had no choice either. There are plenty of other configurations that would have worked fine, and if they wanted to remove a counter to leave space for the logo, they could have simply moved the minute counter to the bottom, and make the watch a 30 minute chronograph versus a 12 hour one. But no, we are stuck with this. my faith in the management is severely rocked right now.

I make no judgments about other Hamilton watches, most of them are quite splendid and nice to own. Though now I will sit there and test each watch before buying it to make sure the watch maker inserted all the necessary hands.

The size of the watch is 46mm, and over 16mm thick. On the back you'll find an exhibition window, which reduces the water resistance to 200m from 300m. Pretty standard. This is a large size watch. Which I like. Lastly you will see the new strap options. The original Below Zero has a rubber strap, but nicely stitched leather straps with the same hexagonal screws are used for the chronograph models. Overall, the Below Zero is a good value at about $2000 retail. You are likely to find it for a fair amount less, which is good for a nice looking watch like this that seems to combine diver, military, and pilot watches, retain its own sense of character.

Hamilton Seaview Automatic Diver Watch

What is different about this Hamilton Seaview Automatic Diver watch? I thought about this question for a little while before writing anything down. I know I have seen the nautical almost art deco themed font used for the numbering before. The font is sort of an amalgamation of everything ocean-worthy and futuristic from 1920 -1970. Gently shaded, the large applied number totally make the watch. Without them it would be just another passable for forgettable Hamilton watch. The watch is pretty big too at 46mm wide, and the relatively small numbers on the rotating diver's bezel don't help the large wrist footprint. But that is OK, you want a nice looking watch like this to standout.

Hamilton Seaview Automatic Diver WatchWhile it is has been hit and miss with me in regard to new Hamilton watches as of late, the volume sales leader for Swatch Group continues to push out a few good designs each year. I'd like to think that this is one of them. The case is PVD steel, but not all of it black. The bezel and face are however dark colored, and they play off the steel colored lugs and dial attachments (hands and indexes) really well. Another key feature to the good looks is the brown strap with a little bit of contrast stitching. I wouldn't have assumed the color combination went together well until I saw the final result. It gives it a very masculine "I don't care about fashion but still like to look good" design. The crystal is sapphire, and the watch is a true diver with 300 meters of water resistance. Inside is a sturdy ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical movement that ought to work just fine in this watch. Best part is the price. At 645 euros retail, expect to see a US street price of $400 -$500.

Hamilton Ventura XXL Automatic Watch

It was only a matter of time before Hamilton decided it was time for a real rehash of the classic Ventura watch. This is not to be confused with now defunct Ventura watches. The Ventura watch model from Hamilton first came out in the age of pre-quartz electronic watches.

When "electronic" watches meant something futuristic and exotic. It was the spacey look of the watch that really mattered though. At the time, it was really "out there." Shaped like a shield on its side - many with the popular two-tone leather strap - the Ventura has been in production for over 50 years.

It is funny that only more recently have the watches become mechanical. The 50th anniversary Hamilton Ventura sported a partially skeletonized face and ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical movement. The Ventura has screen time in at least one film. It was worn by the heroes in the Men in Black movies, going along with the retro space-age theme. Over 50 years, very little changed with the look of the Ventura case itself, which is a good or bad thing depending on who you are. Well now, in 2009, Hamilton is releasing the first really new Ventura, in a long, long time.

At Basel next month we will see the new Hamilton Ventura XXL Automatic watch. A serious update on the styling makes it a true Ventura watch only to serious enthusiasts. New comers to the model might not even associate it with the original iconic watch design. The watch gets some needed refinement and updating. Notable are the smoother integration between the lug structure and the strap, as well and the more angular look of the case and face.


Still, smooth curves define much of the surface, but don't make up the shape itself. The crown itself is integrated - Cartier Roadster style - into the case and crystal (which looks to have some curvature). The case is made of steel with an Anthracite PVD color coating. Size is up to 42mm wide, and taller still - hence the XXL name in the watch. Regardless, the watch is not huge, just larger than the original that was maybe 35-36mm wide. Right not at least, only a rubber strap will be offered. I hope to see a return to the two-tone contrasting strap look soon.

With a textured dial, more aggressive looks, and arguably similar avant grade nature, it takes the look a bit upmarket and make it relevant again. I think that other more interesting watches in the recent years have overshadowed potential interest in the classic Ventura watch. I think it was a good idea for Hamilton to focus on its heritage line. Inside the watch will again be an automatic ETA 2824-2 movement like the 50th Anniversary Ventura model. I expect prices to be between $1000 - $2000.

Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic For 2009: Return Of A Classic, Again


If there was ever a watch that defined a brand it is the Khaki line for Hamilton. They have actually imparted the "Khaki" name on scores of watches, but the Field Khaki is the basic original military watch that started the trend. A popular watch for decades the original models were tiny by today's comparisons often being 33mm wide. Those are smaller than most women's watches today. The New Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic will be available in two (reasonable) sizes at 40mm and 44mm wide. I would love to wear the 44mm wide version in this classic style. The watches also get a lot of upgrades. These include the sapphire crystals, applied hour markers and Swiss automatic ETA 2824-2 movements. This first line has a gun metal colored black PVD steel case - but I have a feeling that future models will adopt the original sandblasted steel look of the original models.

This is by no means the only time that Hamilton has "re-released" The Khaki watch, but I particularly like this iteration and how much Hamilton has been able to hold back from doing something screwy as they often tend to do with watches. Once in a while however they come out with something nice like this that doesn't have functions that no one uses or style that no one other than Hamilton designers seem to understand.

One of the major characteristics about the dial is the ability to read standard and military (24 hour time). If you know whether it is AM or PM, you can easily understand what 1800 hours means with this watch. The traditional looking hands are lume covered and the right size (yay!) - while the dials function as well as the original models did. While Hamilton is an American company gone Swiss, at least the available textured leather straps on these 2009 models are made in the USA, the rest is not. There is also a rubber strap available. You'll have to go and get yourself a NATO or canvas strap for that real "original" look. There are two models here with a white and black face. I can't decide which I like better, but I am leaning forward the white - as it is more instrument minded. The black dial with orange is nice - but I don't feel like orange all the time when looking at a watch of this type so I'd opt for the monochromatic version.

The cases are water resistant to 100 meters and the prices are reasonable - retailing at $645 for the 40mm wide version and $745 for the 44mm wide version. Expect "street" prices to be lower than that and the watches to be available soon. My take is that these new Khaki Field Automatic watches are a good addition to a collection that embraces "functional" or vintage styled watches. No one will ever nominate these watches in a beauty contest, but their attraction is in the timeless ease of use and sense of reliability that the watch are able to convey.

Top five watches for men



1.Patek Philippe The world’s best-regarded watch brand is actually fairly discreet. A Patek – prices start at £10,260 in part because they’re only made from precious metals – says as much about its owner’s restrained good taste as it does about his income bracket. Both the watch’s reliability – and its resale value – are assured.






2.Swatch Among Swatch’s millions of ­customers there are rich men who are so confident that they are happy to wear a demure £30 watch under their £3,000 bespoke suit, because they have no need to make a statement with their watch – presumably they find their portfolio of luxury brands, and their art collection, tells its own story.





3.ToyWatch The genius of ToyWatch, and ­competitors such as Triwa, is to turn its customer’s inability to afford a ­luxury watch into a fashion virtue. The panache built into these colourful but cheap designs, with prices starting at around £100, makes it entirely forgivable that they are basically ­plastic Rolex look-alikes




4.Audemars Piguet Wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, an imposing steel octagonal sports watch that was first designed by Gerald Genta in 1972 for men with hairy chests, makes a statement about both your wealth and your ­alpha-male mindset – Audemars’ most famous fan is Arnold Schwarzenegger. Prices start at around £13,000 and head up into six figures



5.TAG Heuer For many men a TAG is their first ­expensive watch. The brand, which has a peerless history of motorsport involvement, retains a sporty aura that gives these entry-level luxury watches a go-getting image. Popular with ambitious young executives, prices start at around £1,250 for the covetable Carrera

From guardian.co.uk

Why are men obsessed with watches?

No one needs one. They tend to be seriously expensive. There's a recession on. And yet magazines today are stuffed with adverts for power watches – and the industry is booming

An ordinary, inexpensive watch by a relatively unknown manufacturer has recently racked up millions of sales in America and is set to do the same here. Its success has nothing to do with its design, or a huge marketing campaign, but the fact that it is the timepiece currently favoured by the president of the US. The Jorg Gray 6500 Chronometer, originally designed for members of the US Secret Service, was a birthday gift to Barack Obama from a member of his security team.

When the £260 model – which made subtle appearances at Obama's Democratic nomination in Denver, his victory speech in Chicago, Inauguration Day and the G20 summit in London – was identified by Jeff Stein, an Atlanta-based lawyer and horological hobbyist, its commercial success was guaranteed. Not because of what it offered as a watch – the battery-powered model does little more than tell the time and provide a stopwatch – but because of its association. Owning one of these puts you in the same club as the most powerful man in the world; and men like being members of clubs like that.

Watches are big business these days. And the last five years have seen extraordinary growth in the sector. The Swiss watch industry, for example, saw its exports grow from £2.5bn in 1986 to £10bn in 2008. All this despite the fact that the primary function of the watch – to tell the time – has been rendered pretty much obsolete by the invention of the mobile phone and the BlackBerry. So why are we still buying them? Why do heads of state still give watches to their hosts on the occasion of state visits? (Silvio Berlusconi must have handed dozens to Tony Blair over the years.) Why did Bernie Madoff own 17 Rolexes and seven Cartiers? Why are the most common items stolen from wealthy footballers in Cheshire not sports cars but watches? Why are the pages of men's magazines such as Esquire and GQ, or publications such as the Spectator and the New Yorker, festooned with glossy advertisements featuring A-list celebrities wearing watches that cost many thousands of pounds each?

It wasn't so long ago that your father would hand you a gold-plated watch on your 21st birthday and that would be that. It never crossed a man's mind that he might need to add another two or three by the time he hit 30. And it certainly never crossed his mind that when he reached 40 he might be grateful to receive a smart wooden box with different felt-lined compartments in which to keep his "collection" of watches.

The fact that men are still buying and cherishing quality timepieces is of great comfort to an industry that, in the early 1970s, thought its time, if you will excuse the pun, had come. The invention of the quartz watch (in analog or digital form) in 1967 might initially have been hailed a great technological achievement, but it wasn't long before it was also seen as the biggest challenge the traditional timepiece had faced since the wristwatch first became popular at the end of the first world war. The fact that a cheap Casio with a flashing LED time display was what every young hipster soon craved, coupled with the economic doldrums in which the world found itself in the 1970s, spelled disaster.

It took a few years of navel-gazing and re-evaluating what a watch was truly for before, in the mid-1980s, a few forceful and inventive characters in the industry came back with a design philosophy and marketing programme that brought the sector back from the brink. These horological pioneers decided that watches would not merely be timekeepers, they would be mini-masterpieces that showcased extreme craftsmanship, represented tradition, incorporated technology and embraced innovation. They would effectively be a Savile Row suit, Ferrari sports car, Mayfair member's club and Nasa spaceship rolled into one package that could sit neatly on your wrist.

And despite their size, and passive presence, watches could even have a hint of sport, danger and adventure about them. It was 25 years ago, for example, that Tag Heuer signed a deal with the formula one McLaren team and suddenly its timepieces were associated with one of the world's most glamorous, high-octane sports. What man wouldn't want to have a little part of that – even if the closest he got to the Monaco Grand Prix was a 15-minute commute on London Underground's Circle line?

The idea that technology would deal a fatal blow to the watch, simply hasn't panned out. Men now own mobile phones and BlackBerrys as well as, not instead of, their timepieces. Watches are one of the few items that a man can wear that he believes display true character, signal that he is a member of a particular club – whether it's an Audemars Piguet or a Swatch – and indulge in a little dose of extravagance without, generally, drawing criticism. Watches are the acceptable face of male jewellery: bangles can be iffy, signet rings dodgy, ear studs a no-no and gold chains risible. A Rolex or a Jaeger LeCoultre, however, whether it's gold, platinum or stainless steel, is viewed as wholly acceptable.

Antoine Pin, managing director of LVMH's UK watch and jewellery business, points out that men's dress codes are quite limited. "Our wardrobes consist mainly of suits, shirts, sweaters and jeans, so a watch is one of the few places that you can express your personality, or the way that you are feeling," he says.

Pin also points out that the only other item that men traditionally use to express themselves, or to show off with, is their car. But the flashy car is becoming less popular: not only are cars big, expensive, environmentally unsound, dangerous and declasse, but they have another major disadvantage compared to the watch: they are parked in the garage rather than being displayed where all can see them. A watch is a Porsche that you can take to meetings – and it doesn't harm the planet either.

To take full advantage of all this, the watch industry has done three things: one, made its creations technologically advanced and awe-inspiringly complicated in construction, ever more like a world-class sports car in fact; two, made sure that it continually introduces new models; three, spent a lot of money letting us know about them. Hence those wall-to-wall glossy adverts.

The technology aspect is, of course, crucial. Men are, intrinsically, nerdy; they love nothing more than an item that not only looks good but has myriad functions and a construction that will have taken a lot of craftsmen a lot of time. One highly collectible Patek Philippe model, the limited-edition Calibre 89 – the world's most complicated watch – has 33 functions (including telling you the time of sunrise and sunset, indicating leap years, providing the date of Easter, as well as a thermometer and a moon phase display) and 1,278 parts, which include 68 springs and 24 hands. One sold at auction in 2004 for more than $5m.

And because of technological advances and improvements, the watch companies are able to produce new innovations with increasing frequency. The major brands will introduce a new model at least once a year, usually unveiled at the industry's annual showcase, Baselworld, where all the companies spend a fortune building extravagant, three-storey, luxuriously furnished temporary stands to display their latest designs.

The industry's big players will invest between 10 and 25% of their revenue in advertising and marketing: millions will go on buying pages in magazines that reach their target market, and millions more will go on sponsoring sports teams or players that lend their brands the edge they require. In return, the magazines will feature their watches in their editorial pages – as much because their readers will want to know about them as because the watch companies will hope for their support in return for the amount of money they have invested. For example, watch advertising will account for about 18% of the total ad revenue of a typical upmarket men's magazine.

This year has actually been as tricky for the luxury watch industry as it has been for everyone else. The value of Swiss watch exports for October this year was £780m, down 22.7% from last October. In the UK, however, it could have been a lot worse. The weaker pound has meant that a lot of visitors have come to this country to purchase watches and jewellery and thus saved the British market from what could have been a 30% drop in sales.

The economy has also dictated a shift in what men are looking to buy. Sarah Carlsen, head of press at Cartier, says that its customers are also no longer looking to make an ostentatious statement. "The showy buyers of a bull market are long gone," she says. "We are now selling to men looking to make an intelligent purchase; looking to be part of an unspoken club of those who know, understand and appreciate the complications of an haute horology timepiece."

And speaking of intelligent buys, it's true that if you choose a watch carefully it will hold on to, or even increase, its value. One reason that auction sales of timepieces remain buoyant is because buyers recognise that the quality of a pre-owned watch is a safe haven for cash. One timepiece, a Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication from the 1930s, was sold a decade ago by Sotheby's for a record $11.5m.

But it's also about simple pleasure, of course. I own five watches – a Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, a vintage 1960s Rolex Submariner, a Tag Heuer Carrera, a Manometro by Giuliano Mazzuoli and a Swatch – and I enjoy them all equally. And, like it or not, the model you wear does says something about you. And it isn't necessarily about the price: as Obama has illustrated, you can be the leader of the free world and your timepiece cost no more than £260, while Diego della Valle, the billionaire owner of the Tod's fashion empire, always sports a humble but perfectly designed Swatch.

Whether it cost £50 or £5,000, men clock the watch in the same way some women might take note of another's shoes. It's what we do. And the watch industry is very happy about that


From guardian.co.uk