1.29.2010

JAEGER-LECOULTRE - Tribute to the grand watchmaking tradition

The two inaugural creations of the new Master Grande Tradition line unveiled in 2009 herald a new chapter in the history of the Manufacture.





 
Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon à Quantième Perpétuel


Embodying the successful alliance of an extraordinary watchmaking heritage and an irresistible spirit of innovation, the two inaugural creations of the new Master Grande Tradition line unveiled in 2009 herald a new chapter in the history of the Manufacture. This line is distinguished by distinctive aesthetics and the combined presence on each model of two complications interpreted in a manner that is both historical and innovative. The two first horological creations in the Master Grande Tradition collection feature twin functions that are new for the Manufacture: on the one hand, the first tourbillon to be associated with a perpetual calendar; and on the other, the first minute repeater with two-week power reserve combined with a regulator display.

Entirely dedicated to watches endowed with a double complication, the Master Grande Tradition fully reflects the inventiveness and the excellence of the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux. The appearance of a new star in the brand’s watchmaking firmament deserved to be accentuated by a level of reliability and precision worthy of creations on the cutting edge of technology. These models stem from years of research conducted in the field of acoustics, the choice of materials, as well as manufacturing methods, and they offer eloquent proof that one can achieve an even higher level of precision without compromising the quality of finishing lavished on components. It is thus hardly surprising that the crafting of each of these exceptional timepieces represents a constantly renewed challenge, since each movement comprises over 400 parts.

The association of the tourbillon and perpetual calendar springs to life under the impetus of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 987. Its fascinatingly original architecture is based on a split-level structure.The dial is divided into an upper part displaying the hours and minutes as well as the perpetual calendar indications; and a lower part on which a slight difference of level enables the pro-eminent tourbillon to sparkle as if in a shining jewel case. The perpetual calendar is a masterpiece of miniaturisation displaying the date, the day of the week and the month while taking automatic account of the varying lengths of the month and of the four-year leap-year cycle. To achieve this feat, the movement has to be equipped with a “mechanical memory” of 1,461 days, meaning exactly four years. Its complexity it such that it calls for several hundred parts composing the various gear trains and levers.



 
Master Grande Tradition à Répétition Minutes



In addition to the extraordinary characteristics that have already propelled Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 947 to the ranks of exceptional watch mechanisms, the new Calibre 947R is the first Jaeger-LeCoultre movement to combine a minute repeater with a regulator-type display. The brand has introduced an impressive spate of technical innovations over the past four years. The cross-section of the gongs has now adopted a progressively tapering shape towards its end in order to increase the duration of the sound. Moreover, this section now also features a square appearance in order to intensify the sound volume by a better strike of the hammer.



 
Calibre 947R



Finally, the all-of-a-piece construction of the gong and its heel serves to reduce the losses in energy and thus to improve the propagation of the sound. This Master Grande Tradition watch is still the only watch to combine a minute repeater with two-week power reserve with a crystal gong.

Another major innovation lies in the first ever use of a silicon escapement on yellow gold models issued in limited series. These enhanced performances and significantly improved precision are certified by the new label created by the Manufacture and named “1000 Hours Chrono”.

While the history of Fine Watchmaking is studded with inventions and technical accomplishments, one of them in particular opened up whole new vistas for the entire field: Calibre 101. Created in 1929 in the workshops of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, this prodigious feat of micromechanical engineering has been a watchmaking icon for 80 years. 80 years of uninterrupted history, of consistent advancement and creativity. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen the Venice Film Festival as the venue in which to celebrate the world’s smallest movement. Six very different and equally stunning watches commemorate this anniversary with a blend of grace and inspiration, treating the infinitely small to an infinitely broad variety of expressive variations. The history of this legendary calibre began in the 1920s, an eventful period distinguished by cultural and artistic effervescence, technical progress and social emancipation – especially for women. It was a time of profound upheavals. The watchmaking world was slowly but surely shifting from pocketwatches to wristwatches, while ladies’ watches were also taking off. Jaeger-Lecoultre’s 1924 introduction of its famous Duoplan movement was doubly significant: from a technical standpoint, by proving that daintiness and precision are not incompatible; and aesthetically speaking, by freeing timepieces from their classic round shape. The worldwide success of the “baguette” watch is the most striking example of this breakthrough design trend.

Building on this feat, the Manufacture pursued its research into scaled-down mechanisms and succeeded in miniaturising the Duoplan movement without compromising its reliability.

This led to the birth in 1929 of Calibre 101, which was to become firmly acknowledged as the smallest mechanical movement ever made. Entirely in tune with feminine eclecticism, it lent itself to all manner of daring approaches, offering the in-house designers boundless ways of giving free rein to their creative instincts. Its jewellery versions have since then adorned the daintiest and noblest wrists, including that of Queen Elizabeth II of England at her coronation in 1953.

Four generations later, this micromechanical marvel is still in the forefront of the watch industry, despite the fact that only fifty of them are produced each year. Only a handful of watchmakers fully master the sophisticated assembly process required for this paragon of horological precision. 98 parts housed within a mere 0.2cm3 and measuring only 3.4 mm thick; a balance oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour; and a total weight of barely one gram: its vital statistics are a daunting challenge in themselves!


 
Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco


Whether contemporary or classic, the Haute Joaillerie 2009 models, which include a masculine interpretation, vie with each other in providing a stylish frame for Calibre 101. A slender profile outlined against a Reverso case; a round, rectangular or square dial revealing or concealing the mechanism; a range of noble and precious materials: each watch issued in limited series of three to five exudes its own personality and affirms its distinctive character.

Each of them carries the stellar watch mechanism and allows it to play the leading role on a sparkling “movie set”.




TECHNICAL INFORMATIONS

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION TOURBILLON À QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL

Movement: mechanical self-winding, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 987, 48-hour power reserve
Case: pink gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Strap: alligator leather strap
Water resistance: 50 metres
Limited edition: available in 18K yellow gold with a silicon escapement, in a limited series of 300


MASTER GRANDE TRADITION À RÉPÉTITION MINUTES

Movement: mechanical manually-wound, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 947R, silicon escapement.
Case: yellow gold.
Diameter: 44 mm.
Functions: regulator display – off-centred hours, central minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, minute repeater with barrel-torque indication and indication of two-week power reserve.
Case-back: sapphire crystal with integrated magnifying glass. STRAP: alligator leather.
Water-resistance: 50 metres.
Limited edition: 100


JOAILLERIE 101 NODO

Movement: mechanical self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101, 33-hour power reserve.
Case: white gold set with brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds.
Functions: hours, minutes.
Limited edition: 5 watches


JOAILLERIE 101 FEUILLE

Movement: mechanical self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101, 33-hour power reserve.
Case: white gold set with brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds.
Limited edition: 5 watches


GRANDE REVERSO 101 ART DÉCO

Movement: mechanical self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101, 33-hour power reserve.
Case: white gold, onyx, mother-of-pearl and enamel.
Functions: hours, minutes.
Limited edition: 5 watches



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