The first series-production watch with a silicium heart and face, this revolutionary version of the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time challenges the old order
Do a Google search for silicium. You will find 1,500,000 results for this most common of metalloids otherwise known as silicon (Si14). Beginning at number 11, you will find results relating to watchmaking (these search results are current, from February 2009). This is remarkable, considering that silicium has a wide variety of industrial uses and did not even figure in watchmaking until the end of the 20th century. What is even more remarkable is how much coverage one brand, Ulysse Nardin, has managed to get on this subject, forever linking the brand with the material.
While the ever-mighty Rolex conducted experiments into this material in the 1990s, they never discussed it. Editorial and marketing forays into the subject probably began in this century. The steadily increasing pace of development and deployment of silicium in mechanical watches may appear to have caught the industry and the press off-guard but the prevalence of the word silicium itself is a sign that we are witnessing a marketing and publicity triumph alongside an industrial one.
| To make a longish story shorter, silicium has clear advantages over traditional materials when it comes to precision engineering and in reducing friction. What is clear is that this material does have a legitimate industrial and functional role to play in watchmaking.Nowhere is this more evident than at Le Locle-based Ulysse Nardin – possibly one of the most forward-thinking and relevant brands on the market today. |
As always, the Freak remains the most potent symbol of the independence of the brand but in 2008, it was the Sonata that continued the material revolution. The aptly named Silicium Sonata probably features the largest number of parts executed in silicium of any series-production watch. Its closest competitors are the Aqua Terra from Omega, which puts Omega’s silicium hairspring into unlimited series production for the first time, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition watches (with escape wheels and anchors in silicium) and the Patek Philippe Ref. 5450 Annual Calendar.
Unfortunately, Ulysse Nardin missed out on a valuable marketing opportunity by keeping this escapement assembly out of sight, which is why there are no photographs of this via the caseback.
Beyond a battle to simply push out silicium components, the Sonata features three of the innovations introduced with their InnoVision in 2007. These developments were meant to showcase the potential of silicium in precision engineering and in overcoming friction. The Sonata is the proof of the pudding, so to speak.
First of all, the Slicium Sonata is a dual time watch with alarm (cathedral gong). Of course, this is like calling the Burj al-Arab a hotel. In truth, the Silicium Sonata is the dream of future watchmaking, as well as offering the comfortable functionality that Ulysse Nardin is known for. On the one hand, this limited edition offers the now-famous +/- pusher corrector for the dual time function, making the switching of time forwards and/or backwards child’s play. Most such functions only allow the advancement of time. Moving backwards involves a great deal of hassle.
Taking into consideration the big date and the alarm, setting the second time zone becomes a tiresome affair. With this +/- corrector, everything switches effortlessly through its commands – with date, alarm and countdown obeying without fuss.
On the alarm function, this watch displays similarly novel functionality. It is possible to set the alarm up to 24 hours in advance which is most useful indeed. Like the +/- innovation, this alarm setting was the only one of its kind when it was introduced in 2005. Nevertheless, utility is not what makes this watch notable. After all, these are the exact same functions of the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time.
You might think this challenges the craftsmanship principle of mechanical watchmaking and it is true that no one will be painstakingly attempting to fit the impulse finger onto the roller here. Instead, the challenge moves to engineering the parts exactly right, itself no mean feat
Considering the level to which CNC manufacturing, spark erosion and computer simulations are already changing the face of so-called traditional watchmaking, the new technologies of DRIE (Deep Reactive Ion Etching) and LIGA (a photolithography process) cannot be easily dismissed. Note that with the dial, the markings and etchings there are also a part of a special process developed by Sigatec. As we see it, the challenge is simply to create better mechanical watches, not replicas of museum pieces.
Rest assured that the watch itself is cased in precious metals (18K white gold and 18K rose gold) and is limited to 300 pieces in each variation. Additionally, the bridges are finished with ruthenium while the rotor sports an irregular guilloche pattern, emphasizing the hand-work done on this piece. No one need fear that this is not a luxurious proposition.
Personally, I am always excited by the prospect of genuine progress in the pursuit of excellence in mechanical chronometry. That so many parts are present in silicium in this watch is exciting precisely because it elevates the art of horology and not too many watches do that.
As stated earlier, the Silicium Sonata is the dream of future watchmaking and such a thing happens just once. That fact alone should whet the appetites of resolute collectors, never mind that this is also a handsome piece to boot. “The Sonata Silicium demonstrates that silicium is not only the solution for a reliable escapement, but it can also be used for the aesthetic design of a timepiece,” says Ulysse Nardin Executive Vice President Pierre Gygax.
The final piece of the puzzle here is that of the silicium cut 1.1.1 hairspring used by Ulysse Nardin. Gygax describes it this way, vis-à-vis Patek Philippe’s silinvar hairspring:
“The silicium cut 1.1.1 presents isotropic mechanical properties.There are positive genuine product advantages." Gygax informs us that the patent for this has not been published yet but we will be sure to find out more about the silicium cut 1.1.1 hairspring at a later date.
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