RM 028 (full review)

The new diver’s watch Richard Mille

 

Richard Mille automatic diver's watch RM 028

At the beginning of 2009, Richard Mille entered the world of the ocean depths with his premiere diver’s watch, the RM 025 tourbillion chronograph. This exceptional piece also marked the first entrance of a round case within the collection. Today the brand presents a new automatic diver’s watch, the RM 028, in a slightly smaller diameter of 47 mm.

Following the lines set out by the RM 025, the new RM 028 with its exceptional case and skeletonised movement possesses all the incontestable qualities that typify the watches of Richard Mille.

Following diver’s watch ISO norms 6425 with its water resistance of 300 meters (30 ATM) and a unidirectional bezel, the seemingly simple lines of the round case of the RM 028 conceal a considerable amount of technical know-how. The exceptional water resistance is achieved with a three part case construction and torque screws, with complete integration of the lugs into the case system.

Turning unidirectionally to prevent miscalculations whilst diving, the bezel is composed of three sections assembled with 22 torque screws, making it impossible to accidentally dislodge from the case.

The skeleonized automatic movement of the RM 028 utilizes a rotor with variable geometry, a major innovation of Richard Mile that allows the level of automatic winding to be adjusted to the user’s lifestyle via the setting of two 18ct white gold wings.

Like the RM 025, dedicated to the marine world of diving, the automatic RM 028 is in all ways an integral part of the collection, immediately identifiable as a typical creation of Richard Mille Watches.

Richard Mille automatic diver's watch RM 028

Skeletonized automatic movement with variable rotor geometry, hours, minutes, central seconds and date.
Dimensions: diameter 47.00 mm x 14.60 mm (thickest point).
Available in titanium with titanium lugs and rubber bracelet.

Richard Mille diver's watch RM 028

Technical specifications

Following the directions set out by the first diver’s watch created by Richard Mille, the RM 025, the RM 028 utilizes a number of key elements that demarcate the theme of diving within the collection.

Cased in a slightly smaller diameter of 47mm, this new creation has all the hallmarks of the uncompromising character that the watches created by Richard Mille possess.

Its exceptional tripartite case with unidirectional lunette and water resistance to 300 meters follows ISO diver’s watch norm 6425, creating a perfect environment to house the skeletonized movement with variable rotor geometry, a Richard Mille exclusive.

This new creation is available in titanium with screwed titanium lugs and a rubber strap.

Caliber RMAS7: skeletonized automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, central seconds, date and adjustable rotor geometry.

Dimensions: diameter 47.00 mm x 14.60 mm (thickest area).

Main features (Many of which are major technical innovations)

Rotor with variable geometry

* Arm in grade 2 titanium
* Flange in grade 2 titanium
* 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws
* Ribs in 18-carat, high palladium content white gold
* Weight segment in tungsten/cobalt alloy
* Ceramic ball bearings
* Unidirectional anti-clockwise winding direction


This exclusive RICHARD MILLE design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level whether it be sporting or non-sporting environments.
By adjusting the setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or slow it down when sporting activities are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized and personalized to the owner’s lifestyle.

Power reserve

Circa 55 hours.

Warer resistance

The watch is water resistant to 30 atmospheres (300 meters) following ISO 6425 diver’s watch norms.
This is achieved with a unique, curved, tripartite case design using torque screws that can be individually and precisely tensioned with high accuracy around the exterior circumference of the case.
This is complemented by a screwed crown construction. The lugs of all versions are in titanium, with screws to attach the rubber diving strap for added security.

Bezel

Built up of three layers connected with 22 screws, turning unidirectionally following ISO 6425 norms to avoid timing miscalculations. The use of an additional screwed system attaching the bezel to the watchcase makes it absolutely stable as well as impossible to inadvertently dislocate or loosen.
In addition, the use of screws allow for perfect adjustment since the bezel is not tensioned into position. For clearer visibility under murky conditions, starting at 12 o’clock, the five-minute markers of the first quarter are highlighted red.

Bottom plate, bridges and balance cock made of titanium

The manufacture of these components in grade 2 titanium with black PVD coating allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.

Double barrel system

The double barrel system helps to improve the stability of torque over a longer period.
This is achieved by using more turns, thereby reducing pressure and friction on the teeth, the bearings and the pivots, resulting in improved long-term performance.

Date display

Semi-instantaneous, placed in a vertical aperture in the numeral 7. The calendar disc of sapphire crystal is treated with non-reflective coating on both sides.

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case

This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

Interior flange (upper and lower)
In carbon fiber, with index points filled with approved luminous material.

Dial

In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves.

Crystal

* Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).
* Thickness: 3.00 mm
* Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides)
* Thickness: at the center 1.90 mm and at outer edges 2.60 mm

Other features

* Dimensions of movement: 30.25 x 28.45 mm
* Thickness: 4.33 mm
* Number of jewels: 32
* Barrel arbor – in AP 20 steel
* Balance: GLUCYDUR, 3 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg cm2, angle of lift 53º
* Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
* Balance spring: ELINVAR NIVAROX
* Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
* Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
* Stem with three positions: manual winding, time setting, date adjustment

Finishing

Movement

* Bottom plate and bridges in hand-ground titanium, wet sandblasted, PVD treated
* Anglage and polishing by hand
* Locking sections hand polished
* Burnished pivots
* Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side
* Pinions with undercuts
* Sandblasted and rhodium-plated, beveled wheels

Steel parts

* Sapphire blasted surfaces
* Anglage and polishing by hand
* Screw slot and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip

 

Richard Mille automatic diver's watch RM 028

**More information about RM 028.