Indeed, thanks to an innovative conception requesting breakthrough materials and technologies, this concept watch does not need the usual adjusting components of mechanical movements:
* conceived as a mono-bloc piece and manufactured in carbon crystal (material allowing the use of a micron engraving technology), the balance-wheel is directly well balanced
* calculated to obtain an optimum chronometry and manufactured in an innovative material called Zérodur®* (material allowing the use of a micron engraving technology), the active length of the hairspring is directly adapted to the balance-wheel
* manufactured in carbon crystal, the anchor and the anchor wheel are perfectly matching at the time of assembly
Moreover, this concept watch remains perfectly adjusted throughout its lifetime thanks to:
* a carbon crystal escapement cage mounted on silent-blocks (true shock-absorbers of the movement) which protect all the regulating components (hairspring, balance-wheel, anchor, anchor wheel, escapement axis),
* a manufacturing of all regulating components in materials insensitive to thermal variations and magnetic fields (balance-wheel, anchor and anchor wheel in carbon crystal, hairspring in Zérodur®*, axis in titanium),
* movement components with a very low friction coefficient. Indeed, they are either coated with ADLC, either manufactured in carbon crystal: this coating and this material do not need liquid lubrication (oil or grease)
Adjusting: a major know-how in mechanical watchmaking
TTraditionally, a mechanical watch’s movement requires several adjusting operations done by a master watchmaker. These adjusting operations are mandatory to ensure the good functioning of the watch.
As soon as the watchmaker starts assembling the watch, he needs to operate several adjustments:
* Make the balance-wheel perfectly balanced, either with adjusting screws, either by removing matter on the rim
* Adjust the hairspring with the balance-wheel by modulating its active length, most of the time using an index assembly
* Ensure a good match between the escapement components (anchor and anchor wheel), by modifying the position of the adjusting pallet-stones on the anchor.
In some situations the movement might get misadjusted: in case of shocks or magnetisation, when there are strong thermal variations or when the oils get too old or dried. If this happens, the movement has to be re-adjusted.
Movement
Cartier manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding, without adjusting
* Diameter: 16 lignes ½ soit 36,8 mm
* Thickness: 6,12 mm
* Number of jewels: 17
* Number of pieces: 177
* Anchor and anchor wheel: carbon crystal, without jewel pallet-stones. Double-barrel with around 52 hours power reserve
* Main plate in brass coated with ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) and decorated with Côtes de Genève.
Hairspring
Balance-wheel
Oscillating weight
Case
* Niobium-titanium 46 mm case,
* fabric strap,
* adjustable folding clasp in 18k white gold.
* Sapphire crystal and caseback.
* this concept watch is not made to be commercialised.
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