This young brand conceived and founded by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta continues its thrilling quest for cutting-edge horology despite the adversity of the economic crisis. Publishing a leather-bound volume on the incredible details of Flageollet’s groundbreaking work with escapements subtitled “An Essay on the Worthlessness of Purchasing Whatsoever in the Absence of Thrill,” the pair resolutely continues to present its quest for accuracy and innovation – even in the face of a devastating economic climate.
Caliber DB2105s
Caliber DB2105s is finished with mirror-polished stainless steel and boasts 6 days of power
“We [continually] make bigger investments in research than in production,” Zanetta explains. “My dream would be to not produce anything at all…just to satisfy my curiosity [with research].”
And thus the pair has introduced nine cutting-edge calibers over the past years, culminating in this year’s Caliber DB2105s. The latter is outfitted with a silicon balance wheel – actually more aptly described as a silicon disk – framed by a platinum ring, a first in a De Bethune serial movement. Flageollet describes it as 120 percent more efficient than standard balances used in watchmaking. It is combined with a balance spring featuring De Bethune’s own flat terminal curve and needs no adjustment.
This hand-wound movement with six days of power reserve boasts exceptionally unique architecture and is 30 mm in diameter. A power reserve indicator is visible underneath the escapement on the back of the movement. A mirror-polished finish in non-magnetic stainless steel only adds to the surreal effect of the movement.
A Celestial Dial
The DB 25L is also available in De Bethune’s more usual classic dial styling
The DB 25 is usually a very classically styled timepiece from the front, dominated by the brand’s signature three-dimensional revolving moon. The DB 25L, however, comprises a sky dotted with gold stars as the dial. Five operations make this possible: a steel sheet is pierced with holes that are enlarged into the shape of stars. Little pieces of gold are pressed into the metal and polished. The final step is to temper the steel using heat to make it a deep, dark blue reminiscent of the heavens. It is housed in a 44.6 mm white gold case and retails for 67,000 Swiss francs.
All things considered, this price is rather moderate. “The challenge really is to give the customers what they pay for,” Zanetta declares.
The DB 25L in all its celestial glory from the front
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