1.19.2010

Breguet La Tradition - an essay

Three years of planning, several visits to watch boutiques for a 'test drive', pleasant get-togethers with other owners and a lot of thought and research and I finally have a yellow gold, manual wind La Tradition 7027BA/11/9V6 (Cal. 507DR) on my wrist. A watch that is now well known to you and far from the 'new kid on the block', but I always take my time making long term commitments and I enjoy the 'journey' as much as the destination.

While I can't add much to the photographic record on the La Tradition already amassed on this Forum, I thought I would give you my perspective and thoughts on this important watch in the Breguet family.

One of the main pleasures I get from horology is to be able to gaze at and appreciate movements. I enjoy the Reverso Grand Date because I can flip it over to view the movement; however it is inconvenient to quickly tell the time. The La Tradition allows me an uninterrupted view of its very three-dimensional movement through the large antireflective crystal; it is wonderful to see the oscillating 10mm balance wheel peeking out from under a French cuff. The 'flow' of power from the central barrel through the going train to the in-line lever escapement is logically laid out for one to contemplate. Those who enjoy the aural side of mechanical watches will not be disappointed either, as there is a clearly audible ticking sound apparent as I type this at my desk (the La Tradition beats at 21,600 vph – 3Hz).

I love the history of horology. I realise that the Breguet company history is rather patchy in places, but who can argue with the name of this masterful Swiss-borne French horologist. The La Tradition channels many of the design features that are so emblematic of A.-L. Breguet's work: the layout of the stepped bridges, the central main spring, the frosted guilt finish (apparently sandblasted by hand) and the yellow gold case. Not to mention the modern update on the parachute, the overcoiled hairspring, the deeply heat-blued screws, the engine turned guilloche dial and the soldered lugs.

There is enough variety of surfaces, textures and colours from frosting to polished screws to blued hands to red rubies (all 34 of them) to keep your eyes entertained for hours. The hand turned dial contrasts very well with the gold of the watch. As an aside, some have questioned the readability of this 14mm silvered sub-dial, but given the colour contrast with the blued Breguet hands, it is actually very easy at a glance to tell the time from the position of the hands. I wish Breguet had been able to fit a secret signature somewhere on this dial, but the watches individual number is included in a cartouche in the typical Breguet style.

The La Tradition changes its character under different lighting conditions; something that is apparent if you look back through the archive of images posted here and elsewhere. Breguet watches have a rich lustre which is also present on this unusually coloured gold, chosen to match the colour of the alloy used for early Breguet timepieces. Natural light at sunrise and sunset and candlelight (particularly with your favourite partner!) really accentuates this inner warmth and glow.

The La Tradition has a 50 hour power reserve with a subtle but useful power reserve indicator on the front and reverse. The winding is not buttery smooth, but is precise and confidence inspiring with its well proportioned signed crown. The accuracy of the La Tradition is perhaps less easy to determine due to the absence of a second hand, but using a magnifying loupe and the peripheral minute markers around the dial, the watch was accurate to within 10 seconds over a 14 day period of daily winding and continuous use. The large free-sprung balance wheel and the Breguet overcoil no doubt contribute to this excellent performance.

Did I mention the beautiful 37x11.8mm case? Breguet may have been known for their thin and elegant movements and watches, but I love the size and proportion of this case with its traditional cold-rolled fluted sides. Personally I wouldn't want the La Tradition to be any bigger. The strait lugs and the 'wall-to-wall' crystal make this watch wear quite large on the wrist. The brown crocodile strap beautifully accentuates the gold and the buckle is simple and elegant. The band is rather rigid from new and nowhere near as supple or comfortable as, say, a Journe band, but it softens with time and wears well.

I realise that the La Tradition is a rather polarising watch and not everyone loves the design, but you have to admit that it is hard to mistake it for anything else. Perhaps not as versatile as some, but one can wear the La Tradition as a distinctive dress watch to the opera or equally well in an office environment.

Do I sound like I am in love? The answer is probably yes. The La Tradition is a beautiful study in French watchmaking tradition, re-invented by the Swiss, the birthplace of Abraham-Louise Breguet himself.

My apologies for the long essay; I hope this information will be helpful for others considering making a commitment to this watch.




















By Andrew


From http://breguet.watchprosite.com/

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