ROGER DUBUIS - Excalibur Chronograph

The new subtly remodelled Excalibur collection has been modernised.






Press release

Excalibur Chronograph

Roger Dubuis Easy Diver

Press Release

Roger Dubuis is well known for their complicated timepieces, specifically their tourbillons. They also make minute repeaters, chronographs and divers. Personally, I have always liked their flagship Skeletonized Excalibur Tourbillon (which will be featured on Monday), but at $250,000, it is unaccessible to most consumers. Luckily, they do actually make some more affordable timepieces too. In fact, as of 2010, they have lowered their entry level price point for men's watches by 25-30%. The men's Easy Diver collection now starts at just under $13K. This still may sound high, even though they took about $5,000 off the previous model's price. But it is all relative, and for an exclusive, limited production, in-house made movement, this price is about right.

Roger Dubuis-Kingsqaure Column Wheel Chronograph Watch

Some of you will like this watch, some of you won't like this watch at all, and still some of you want this watch so badly you can taste it. Welcome to one of the most polarizing types of designs out there, and it is over a year old already. Personally I am very intrigued by the design, probably since I got to check out this and other Kingsquare watches recently. It is a loud and in your face look, but refined nevertheless - like something Versace watches should be. The King Square line of watches from Roger Dubuis is defined by its square faceted case that angles down on the top and bottom. This means that the sapphire crystal is also faceted. The dial design is like "art deco lightning." Yea, it does make the watch harder to read, but that is just one of its charming quirks. While this article in on the above watch, I figured it would be a good time to show you some images I took of other Kingsquare watch I saw at SIHH last month. Consider these cousin Kingsquare watches.

The 30 minute chronograph almost looks to be there just for presentation, given how closely you need to check it out to read it. Of course it is useful, but the square subdials add an interesting and welcome complexity to the design. The Roman numerals looks pretty awesome if I may say, and they give gold a good name in a look like this. You can tell that Roger Dubuis wants you to think that this is a sport watch given the rubber coating on the crown and pushers. Quality is up to given ownership by Richemont of Roger Dubuis. Note that the watches in the images taken by me have protective plastic around them.

The case is 40mm wide, which is a good size for a square watch - actually that makes it large. I can't tell whether I like the black rubber plate put over the lugs to hide the gap where the strap connects to the case. It is either a genius move, or looks cheap - hard to say. Really depends on how you look at it. It is dark enough not to stand out though. The case is in 18k pink gold. The dial is "flame orange" and uses orange garnet stones as the outer hour markers.

Inside the watch is a highly decorated automatic movement with a micro rotor, that helps you view and appreciate the movement. Further, the chronograph complication uses a column wheel, which adds to the value. With the crocodile or rubber strap and titanium screws, I am pretty sure that this is in fact a sport watch, just with lots of Roger Dubuis upmarket "in your face" character. Note the matching orange stitching on the strap as well. Just a stunning piece in my opinion that will compliment an out-loud personality. Not sure about price, but in the over $30,000 range more than likely. Certainly a lot cheaper than the newer version of this Kingsquare orange beast that has many more stones and a tourbillon.

Richemont Owned Roger Dubuis Watch Brand To Cut Jobs

Last year the Richemont Group added Roger Dubuis to its luxury watch collection of brands. Richemont owns such prestigious brands as A. Lange & Sohne, Jaeger LeCoultre, and Panerai. The acquisition of the Roger Dubuis occurred in the midst of wild growth in key markets such as Asia and the Middle East. With surges expected, Roger Dubuis promoted a liberal hiring policy adding new staff quickly.

Recent revenue disappointments have resulted in a decision to lay off as much as one sixth of the Roger Dubuis work force, or about 70 people. The move will emphasize a marketing refocus for the brand that hopes to increase its presence in retail stores as well as complete production on highly sought after high-end models.

Roger Dubuis seems eager to express that this move does not signify an end to the esteemed watch maker, nor does it indicate a slew of bad management decisions. No one is immune from the current economic market, and Roger Dubuis was perhaps a bit too optimistic with its growth and watch production capacity. Unlike "Tier One" luxury watch brands with the most valuable brand names, Roger Dubuis is less known (making them "Tier Two'), even though they still offer a very high quality and complex watch product line. This can negatively affect the value proposition of buying their watches in hard times for some consumers.

Despite this news, Roger Dubuis customers are still eagerly awaiting the release of its most expensive watch date, a $500,000 complex multi-timezone perpetual calendar timepiece. Pictured, is a Roger Dubuis Excalibur with a 45mm white gold case, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, tourbillion, and double rotors.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Watch For 2010

Does the style of this watch kick ass or what? I've always been a fan of Roger Dubuis designs, and their relatively recent acquisition by the Richemont Group has helped them drastically improve quality. No more rushed-to-market watches. This is the newest version of their Double Tourbillon watch that was originally released back in 2005. The RD01 movement is manually wound and has two flying tourbillons that average each other out for a better accuracy rate. The dial displays the time with retrograde minutes, and the back of the watch has a power reserve indicator. There are few watches that can make a tourbillon look more sexy than this.



Roger Dubuis chose the name of the Excalibur case well. Large and in-your-face in terms of styling, the watch literally seems to yell "look at me." Depending on your style or mood, this is exactly what you want, or not what you want at all. The bezel has a neat serrated look to it and the crown is actually located underneath a large crown cap. Polish and finish are all really nice, and the dial details are fun to to see. Roger Dubuis is among a few people that do two different polishes on their hands. The sword style hands are polished on one side, and brushed on the other side of the middle fold. You'll love the resulting look. You can even still see Dubuis' iconic art deco style Roman numeral hour markers on the dial that are given a unique placement. The watch comes in 18k white or rose gold. Price is high, of course. It is one of those watches you love or hate, but if you love it, you really want one.

ROGER DUBUIS-KINGSQUARE COLLECTION

THE EXTRAVAGANT

Presented by Roger Dubuis in 2008, this collection has strongly identifying architectonics that have made it one of its generation’s most recognisable timepieces.

The three-sided sapphire crystal seems to relegate the reading of the time to the background, while the seductive appeal of the model lies in its volume, shape and original construction.

Whether dressed in bold colours or equipped with a chronograph or even a complicated movement like the men’s or ladies’ skeleton tourbillon, this line remains resolutely urban and is suitable for the most sophisticated surroundings.

KINGSQUARE TOURBILLON

MASCULINE AND EXUBERANT TOURBILLON

 

The Kingsquare Tourbillon watch, masculine and exuberant

In keeping with its reputation, ROGER DUBUIS has taken the bold step of creating an exceptional timepiece exclusively for men.The bezel and middle of the black titanium case are decorated respectively with 102 and 12 flamboyant baguette-cut spessartites. Black and orange alternate on the dial, while large Roman numerals are interspersed with the spessartites set on the black flange. The tourbillon cage can be admired through an opening encircled by a black ring at 7 o’clock. The hand-wound mechanical movement is stamped with the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and the hand-sewn alligator strap is fitted with a black titanium folding clasp. This exclusive model comes in a single limited series of 8.

Movement	:	RD02 MHand-wound mechanical movement, 14 “’,19 jewels, Côtes de Genève decoration. Stamped with Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Characteristics	:
Number of components	:	165
Thickness:	:	5.70 mm
Frequency:	:	3 Hz (21,600 vib/h)
Power reserve	:	60 hours
Case	:	water-resistant to 5 BAR

 

The Kingsquare Tourbillon watch, masculine and exuberant

KINGSQUARE

SUBTLE AND FEMININE

 

The Kingsquare watch, subtl et feminine

The titanium case is flanked by inter-lug plates and a crown, both in rose gold. Its bezel, set with 62 diamonds, echoes the diamond-set square at the centre of the dial. White mother-of-pearl alternates with the sunray flinqué white ground. In addition to the twelve white sapphire hour-markers, four Roman numeral appliques in white circular-grained mother-of-pearl mark the quarter hours.

The movement, naturally, is made by the Manufacture and stamped with the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. The satin-finished leather strap features a titanium folding clasp.This exclusive model comes in a single limited series of 280.

Movement	:	RD14 Self-winding mechanical movement, 11½’’’, 33 jewels, Côtes de Genève motif. Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Characteristics	:	Hours and minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock (optional).
Number of components	:	171
Thickness	:	3.43 mm
Frequency:	:	4 Hz (28,800 vib/h)
Power reserve	:	48 hours
Case	:	water-resistant to 5 BAR

 

The Kingsquare watch, subtl et feminine

ROGER DUBUIS - Easy Diver RD 821

EASYDIVER, sporty elegance.

 

Easy Diver RD 821

At the very centre of the dial’s purple ground is a clou de Paris motif encircled by white mother-of-pearl. The small seconds rotates at the heart of a purple counter that is also encircled by white mother-of-pearl. A white minute circle is displayed on the flange. The steel case, set with 36 diamonds, houses a self-winding mechanical movement and comes on a purple rubber strap closed with a steel folding clasp. This exclusive model comes in a single limited series of 888.

TECHNICAL DATAS

Self-winding mechanical movement, 11½’’’, 33 jewels, rhodium-plated, Côtes de Genève motif.

Hours and minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock (optional).
Number of components: 168
Thickness: 3.43 mm
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vib/h)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case: water-resistant to 30 BAR

ROGER DUBUIS - Easy Diver RD 78

EASYDIVER, virile and stylish.

Easy Diver RD 78

The magnificent column-wheel chronograph movement is stamped with the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and given place of honour in this brand new steel case with its black and orange moulded rubber. The dial, with its silvered sun-ray ground, features applique numbers at 12 and letters at 6. To give it depth, it opens onto two satin-finished zones above and below the black counters. The pushpieces feature orange and black moulded rubber elements to complement the bezel. The rubber strap is fitted with a steel folding clasp. This exclusive model comes in a single limited series of 280.

TECHNICAL DATAS

Mechanical movement with self-winding micro-rotor system, 13¾’’’, 36 jewels, rhodium-plated, “Côtes de Genève” motif. Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.

Double pusher column-wheel chronograph, central chronograph hand, semi-instantaneous 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock, hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Number of components: 303
Thickness: 5.80 mm
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vib/h)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case: water-resistant to 30 BAR

ROGER DUBUIS – Richemont Era Becomes Tangible

Roger Dubuis Continues to Amaze with a New Feel and More Quality in its Unusual Collection

Excalibur

The Richemont has definitively begun at Roger Dubuis. Claude Vuillemez, COO of Roger Dubuis and a watchmaker who has worked at the Richemont group and specifically Cartier for the last quarter century, hit upon a very fitting metaphor: since its founding in 1995, Roger Dubuis may be considered as having been a bit like a teenager, “needing common sense and some maturity.” Now Vuillemez finds that the Richemont takeover last fall will force the creative brand with the unusual products into “the adult part of life.”

This new maturity is reflected in many of the structural changes implemented not only in the collection, but also at the movement level. “We are putting the quality back in order,” he explains.


New Movements

In a range boasting 25 in-house calibers, it is hard to imagine needing two new movements. However, this is precisely what the new team has done. Caliber RD520 is the company’s first automatic tourbillon – naturally with a catch. Though it has no further complications, this movement boasts an off-center micro rotor fully visible from the front of the watch, making its visuals unmistakable. It will officially debut in the fall.

Kingsquare

The second movement is an automatic caliber with a bi-retrograde date: Caliber RD14B. This base automatic caliber was designed to beat in an entry-level-priced watch for the brand, extending its exclusive range. Previously, Roger Dubuis’s entry-level price was above 18,000 Swiss francs. The new 46 mm stainless steel Easydiver model it debuts in will retail for 12,500 Swiss francs.

Additionally, the technicians at Roger Dubuis are in the process of getting all the company’s movements certified by the C.O.S.C. Four already boast the independent certification proclaiming reliability.


New Models

The Roger Dubuis collection remains colorful and innovative while visual details have been tweaked to retain dynamism and stabilize design.

Four new models are being introduced in the Excalibur line: a tourbillon minute repeater, a double tourbillon, the previously mentioned automatic tourbillon, and a bi-retrograde jumping date.

Easydiver

The Easydiver line has been enhanced to emphasize its sporty character and showcase a more competitive price. Here a chronograph and a ladies’ jewelry piece are new.

The Kingsquare line has likewise experienced the arrival of two new pieces: a jeweled tourbillon and a 36 mm jeweled ladies’ piece in rose gold.