Ulysse Nardin-Executive Dual Time

This is it, call off the search, I have found my offical ‘black-tie’ watch! Although I have always been somewhat of an admirer of the Dual Time collection from Ulysse Nardin, it wasn’t until they introduced the Executive Dual Time that I really fell in love.

What’s Changed?
Although the classic styling of the Dual Time series has been retained it is the incorporation of that super sleek material ceramic into the design that has really caught my attention. Ceramic is best known for its scratchproof and durable qualities, having found previous uses in medicine and Formula 1 racing, and if used correctly can really set off a piece with its glossy finish. Such is the case with the Executive Dual Time which catches the eye and then mesmerizes you with its subtlety.

Not Just A Pretty Face
As the name suggests the Executive Dual Time is animated by Ulysse Nardine’s patented Dual Time system. When the wearer presses the plus and minus pushers at the 8 and 10 o’clock position they instantly adjust the hour hand to a different time zone while the home time indicator located at 9 o’clock continues its 24 hour cycle. This complication is not only delightful to behold it is also incredibly useful.

Specifications:
The Executive Dual Time offered in both stainless steel and 18 ct rose gold in combination with stunningly sculpted ceramic bezel and ceramic pushers.

The case is a little on the large size at 43mm, especially for a dress watch but a watch this nice never looks out of place.

The self-winding movement mechanism is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The unique black dial is finished off with oversized Roman numerals and three-dimensional chiseled hands.

Each 43mm case is individually numbered and equipped with a black lacquer screw-crown.

This stunning look watch certainly won’t suit all tastes (or budgets) but for me I think Ulysse Nardin has really hit the nail on the head. I love the combination of the stainless steel with the smooth ceramic finish and the design of the dial lends the watch some character, which I find is often missing in evening wear watches attempting to maintain a low profile.

As previously mentioned the watch is certainly not small at 43mm, but then again, why would you want to hide away something as breathtaking as this?

Ulysse Nardin-Diver Perpetual Limited Edition

As regular visitors to the site will know I am currently having an enduring love affair with dive watches. For the most part dive watches are completely impractical for every day use due to their excessively oversized dials designed for legibility under water first and foremost and aesthetics second. However, I think I may have just found an excellent half-way point. Enter the Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Limited Edition.

The Best Of Both Worlds
The new Diver Perpetual Limited Edition combines the strong aesthetic and technical elements from the Marine and Perpetual collections to effectively bring you the best of both worlds. The titanium case is big enough at 45mm to be viewed easily under water but still manageable with a suit and tie, although admittedly it would be a touch on the big side.

The black carbon fibre structured dial is contrasted sensationally with orange luminous indexes and hands which work to complement the turning bezel with its matching orange inlay. Although the orange is quite bright as you would expect from a dive watch, it is suitably muted by the predominant black overtones of the watch. Fitted with an exhibition case back the owner is afforded a prime view of the movement complete with 22ct gold rotor.

Perpetually Revolutionary
When it was first introduced into the market the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual represented a revolutionary accomplishment in the history of watch making – the first Perpetual Calendar adjustable back and forwards from a single crown. This means that all adjustments from the minute hand to the year indicator are synchronized. A few rotations of the crown will result in the calendar displays moving forwards or backwards one or more days, a few months or even several years. At the end of the month the date display automatically displays the first of the next month, while the month disc rotates as well.

With a water resistance of only 300m we can safely assume that this watch is more of a show pony than a serious dive watch. However, with the Diver Perpetual Limited Edition Ulysse Nardin has effectively created an everday sports watch which features unparalleled high complication functionality. Sadly it is limited to only 500 pieces, so don’t expect to see this piece down at your local beach anytime soon.

Looking For A Big Pilot But Don’t Want To Pay Sky High Prices?

It’s a typical scenario, one of your favorite brands brings out a watch that you absolutely love but it so astronomically expensive that you can either never hope to afford it or it will become the only watch you ever buy. A perfect example of this is IWC’s infamous Big Pilot’s watch, a hugely popular timepiece with a price tag to match. At upwards of US$10,000 (depending on the model you choose) this will certainly not be an accessible everyday watch for mainstream consumers and that’s fine because mainstream is not IWC’s market. Fortunately for the rest of us, however, there is now a very viable alternative.

Enter Tourby Watches
Recently during my daily trawl of the internet I came across a boutique German watch maker by the name of Tourby Watches. Depending on how much of a watch enthusiast you are you might be aware that German made watches are right up there in the same esteem as Swiss Made watches in terms of their precision and craftmanship, think A. Lange & Söhne or Sinn. Whilst Tourby may not be as well know as these brands, they do produce high-quality timepieces for exceptionally good prices.

The Big Pilot
The picture above shows IWC’s Big Pilot watch on the left and Tourby Watches Big Pilot on the right. Although there are certainly some design differences, the biggest difference is the price. As I previously mentioned the IWC Big Pilot sells from US$10,000 upwards whereas the Tourby model can be had for just US$877.30 plus shipping from their eBay store. That’s a pretty significant disparity and I know that your first immediate thought is they must be using inferior materials but I assure you they’re not. The specifications list is actually very impressive:

• 45mm diameter (without the crown)
• Threaded see-through caseback (available with or without engravings)
• Double anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Polished thick diamond crown
• Swiss made ETA Unitas 6497-1 handwind movement featuring 17 jewels, 18.000 A/h, 9 cotes de geneve stripes, polished winding wheels, polished pallet bridge, Glycudur Balance, Nivarox Spring and Incabloc anti-shock proof
• Pilots leather strap (with many different options available)
• A big maple wood display box
• 2 years warranty 
• Satin finished case

There’s no doubt that there are a lot of pretenders out there in the luxury watch world but I don’t think Tourby Watches is one of them. They make very good looking watches using high-quality materials and exceptional craftmanship. Although the company only sells bespoke pieces, i.e. made to order, through their website you can buy a number of watches through their eBay store. Alternatively, you can design the watch of your dreams and have it made to order.

A small bit of photos that's in Tourbywatches.com

Photo by Customers

Glashütte Senator Perpetual Calendar – Black Ceramic

At Baselworld my favourite German brand, Glashütte Original, introduced a stunningly simplistic variation of the Senator Perpetual Calendar. Clean, precise and subtle this is German engineering at its best. The watch is practical and sensible and yet at the same time visually alluring. There is no particular stand-out feature on the dial but still I can’t seem to drag my attention away from it! This is the beauty of a quality German watch, no fancy bells and whistles, just exceptional craftmanship.

Simplified Detail
In typical German style the watch is detailed and yet at the same time precise. What other watchmaker can tell you the time, day, date, month, moon phase and indication of a leap year all on the same dial without even looking remotely cluttered!?

Everything on the dial has its place and all information is displayed in the most simplistic way possible and in a font size that can easily read. The sensible color scheme also helps immensely in this area. The white contrasts well against the black for clear and legible reading and the subtle red highlight provides just enough color to draw the eye.

There is no question that this is a very subdued looking piece, however, at the same time the matt black ceramic case gives it a modern appearance, successfully combining tradition and innovation. The leap year display with jumping indicator located at 12 o’clock indicates a leap year when its red indicator points to the 4.

Quality Engineering
The 42 mm ceramic case houses an automatic manufacture Caliber 100-07, with a rather impressive power reserve of more than 55 hours (+/- 10%). This movement also features a unique reset mechanism that allows for easy synchronization of the second hand with a time standard.

Unlike other reset mechanisms, the second hand here is neither connected to the winding stem nor the crown. Therefore, when the crown is pulled out the balance remains in oscillation and the movement continues to run. This significantly reduces material stress consequently prolonging the life of the movement.

To activate the reset mechanism you press a separate button on the side of the case at 8 o’clock (cannot be seen in the photo above). The rotor winds in both directions, providing constant power to the movement.

Finishing off this stunning tribute to Geman know-how is a scratch-resistant black calfskin strap with tonal stitching and a ceramic buckle.

As I mentioned at the start of the article Glashütte Original is pretty much my favorite German watch brand so I am inclined to be quite biased in this regard. Having said that, this timepiece and its incredible craftmanship literally speaks for itself. Smooth, clean lines, uncluttered dial and yet at the same time providing an incredibly detailed level of information.

This is German ingenuity at its best.

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Chaumet Marc Alfieri Tourbillon-New Collaboration

The name Chaumet is synonymous both with luxury and innovation. The brand is renowned for its collaboration with master watchmakers to create truly stunning and unique timepieces. In their most recent foray the luxury brand has partnered with one of the world’s most celebrated contemporary designer watchmakers Marc Alfieri to introduce their latest complication, the appropriately named Tourbillon Marc Alfieri.

Bold And Beautiful
This new watch represents an ethos shared by both jeweler and designer, ‘be bold’. The company claims that the piece was designed with four key objectives in mind: the quest for the exceptional, the affirmation of powerful designs, complete design freedom and an uncompromising approach to watchmaking.

I’m not so sure if they have achieved all of that but the end result is an undeniably stunning yet subtle piece. The watch is presented in Chaumet’s trademark subdued codes and colours; a smooth black dial is complemented by the black titanium case with white gold highlights. The azure blue finishing provides a nice contrast to what is a rather busy dial and accentuates the diamond setting around the tourbillion carriage.

Powering this unique collaboration is a manual-winding mechanical movement, caliber TM 01, tourbillion which features a carbon-fibre main plate and an X-shaped bridge in blue PVD for a macroscopic vision of carbon fibre.

There is a single push-button and single counter fly-back chronograph, second time zone, day/night indicator of second time zone, vertical indicator of power reserve and a vertical accuracy indicator (“trust index”)

The watch is presented with two straps, one in alligator skin and the other in a high-tech fabric and comes in a numbered presentation case.

The watch almost has a sort of sporty feel to it which is rather unusual in my opinion given that only someone of excessive wealth would have the nerve to wear such a watch for sporting occasions. However, given the caliber of the piece and its highly limited production of only 12 pieces I would suggest excessive wealth is a prerequisite to purchase.

No doubt a stunning collaboration, this piece whilst in its own right impressive simply does not suit my tastes.


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Cimier Announces Two New Limited Edition Watches

Swiss watch brand Cimier has recently announced the release of two stunning new pieces, each limited to a run of 200 only. The pieces are dedicated to the Cimier brand ambassadors Tanja Frieden, for the ladies and Jorg Stiel, for the gentlemen. As a rather pleasant change of pace both Tanja and Jorg were given the opportunity to be actively involved in the design of the watches and the end results are quite impressive.

Petite Seconde Venom (Pictured Above)
For a former footballer I must say that Jörg Stiel has done an excellent job with his input on this piece. For those of you not familiar with Mr Stiel he was formerly the goalkeeper for the Swiss National Team and also for Mönchengladbach, one of the most traditional clubs in Germany’s Bundesliga

I personally am not terribly experienced with Cimier as a brand but I do know what I like, and the new Petite Seconde Venom is it. A simple dial that still catches the eye, clean lines and just a touch of colour to set things off nicely.

As the name suggests there is something undeniably reptilian about this piece, an appeal that is only further enhanced by the stunning yellow genuine python leather strap. Even still, this watch will warm the heart of even the most cold blooded of critics. Powering this highly limited edition is a blackened and decorated Unitas 6497 hand wound movement.

Seven Seas Arctica
At the complete opposite end of the spectrum we find Tanja Frieden’s take on timekeeping, the ice cold Seven Seas Artica, a stunning piece that takes is design cues from the blue skies and white snow of the Swiss Alps. The watch’s theme is really quite fitting given that Tanja is Switzerland’s young and upcoming snowboard star and so successfully capture the personality of the ambassador it is dedicated to.

The watch dial is quite busy but still relatively easy to read thanks to the contrasting colors used and to reflect Tanja’s involvement in sport the watch features a chronograph function. For the final touches each case back carries her signature and steel bezel is adorned with 12 sparkling black zircons.

I must say that I am quite taken with the Petite Seconde Venom, its simplistic aethetiscs really appeal to me and I feel that it’s a watch I could wear on a regular basis.

The Seven Seas Artica is a little bit to childish for me but perhaps this more accurately reflects the youth of the ambassador it is dedicated too. Nonetheless it is still a fine looking watch and would certainly look good on the wrist of any snow bunny!

Here’s the full sized photo of the Petite Seconde Venom so you can see that stunning yellow genuine python leather strap.

BELL & ROSS-BR 01 Commando Series

In yet another variation of their infamous flagship model Bell & Ross have introduced the new Instrument BR01 Commando which is supposedly dedicated to the elite forces who operate in the shadows. In my opinion this new offering is completely uninspired, but read on anyway, you might disagree!

The BR 01 Commando Limited Edition
So what makes this new model so limited? Surprisingly little. From what I can tell it seems that all the design gurus over at B&R have done is tweak with the colour scheme of the original BR01 Insturment and that’s about it.

The marketing copy reads that the black case, grey dial and matt finishes make it the superlative camouflage watch. However, given the fact that B&R only just recently released the BR-S Phantom model which is available in all black and that the original BR-01 Instrument comes in black I find this a bit of a weak selling point.

On the upside the sapphire crystal has a double anti-reflection coating and dial is photoluminescent making it easily readable in any condition. As a further novelty you have the option of choice of two mechanical movements, one with a power reserve and the other with a large date.

Why you wouldn’t need both features when undertaking your covert missions beats me but obviously B&R has decided that commandos can only process so much information at any one time.

The Final Word
Personally I am a big fan of the BR-01 Instrument series (including most of the many variations) but at the BR 01 Commando Limited Edition I have to draw the line. I simply don’t see the point. This is yet another example where the marketing division has had far too much involvement in watch design and development to potentially detrimental effect.

I think its time that B&R realized that if they continue to rehash this iconic model they will eventually destroy their credibility in the market and completely devalue the brand.


thewatchlounge.com

Ernst Benz Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series Limited Edition

Swiss engineer and inventor Ernst Benz announced the introduction of four new limited edition models in the Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series. Big and bold the new dial and set of hands has been designed to be reminiscent of the original precision aircraft instrumentation produced by Ernst Benz himself back in the 1960s and 70s. Although the original concept is over thirty years old, the end result is actually quite appealing.

Big And Beautiful
Ernst Benz is known for making big watches and this new release is no exception. Available only in their trademark 47mm size these watches have been designed to be easy to read, as you would expect from a purpose built aviation watch. You also have the choice of two different dials; matte black as featured in the original aircraft version and designed primarily for legibility or alternatively a carbon fibre mesh finish.

The numerals and hands are finished in either white or orange and are coated with luminescent for legibility. The latter color has special significance as or orange is used specifically in aviation for attention. The hands were designed to be exactly like the needles of the gauges of Benz’s original aircraft instruments, and for this release, custom black calendar disks were produced to complement the finish of the dial printed in corresponding colors to match either the white or orange numerals.

As is all the rage at the moment, especially with oversized pilots watches, the case has received the black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) treatment to ensure it is non-reflective and to further resemble the finish of an aircraft cockpit panel.

Like all Ernst Benz watches this new line has been designed and manufactured in Switzerland. The pieces feature an exhibition back so that you can view the custom rotor for the movement. This new signature EB rotor has been cut out with the EB symbol flagged by wings so as to give the appearance that the rotor is almost flying as it spins. For this series, the rotor has been coated in black PVD to match the finish of the case.

I love the design of these new limited edition pieces from Ernst Benz but the oversized 47mm dial means they are simply impractical for every day wear, at least for most people. Having said that the simple and uncluttered dials of these stunning pieces will make them very appealing to professional pilots and other professionals who require a hard-wearing watch that is highly legible, even under the most stressful conditions.

We can only hope that Ernst Benz decides to release a reduced size model for us earthly bound mortals. 42mm would suit me just fine!

Defakto-Newcomer

Looking for something a little different? Perhaps something with a clear, uncluttered dial, clean lines and a smooth black finish? Well maybe its time you considered familiarising yourself with the all-black Eins Schwarz model from German new comer Defakto. And really, at only 425 Euro, why wouldn’t you?

Young, In Age And Design
Defakto is very new to the market, having only been established at the start of 2009 by Raphael Ickler. The youthful nature of the brand is reflected beautifully in the watch’s design, which is decidedly subdued and classic and yet at the same time fashionable and exotic.

The minimalist dial features only a single hand which may take some time to become accustomed to but it is well worth it. This design quirk gives the watch a truly unique appearance and although there are other single hand watches out there, this is one of the first models that I actually really want to wear.

Simple Beauty
The all-black stealth appearance contrasts exceptionally well with the white, luminous indices and Defakto’s red and white logo above 6 o’clock provides the only other source of color. The watch is designed to be uni-sex and at a very reasonable dial size of 42mm this is a watch that will definitely appeal to both genders.

Powering this simple beauty is a Swiss Made ETA 2824-2 Automatic movement enclosed in a stainless steel case with a sapphire exhibition caseback. The case has received the PVD treatment and is complemented by a black calfskin strap. Water resistance is rated at 50m which is about standard on this type of watch.

There are a number of things that I love about the new all-black Eins Schwarz model from Defakto, not least of which is the price. The watch is very versatile offering a piece that can be worn for almost any occasion, either dressed up with a suit and tie or casual with a polo.

At the same time, at only 425 Euro it is also a watch that you can buy without feeling guilty to simply sit in your collection for those times when you feel like something completely different. Plus, the watch is also featured in stainless steel if you don’t like the PVD look.

Overall a very solid performance from this newcomer, I for one will be watching to see what comes next!

For more information and to order yourself a watch check out Defakto’s official website.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase And Power Reserve

Makers of arguably some of the most beautiful watches in the world, I am rarely disappointed by Swiss masters Vacheron Constantin. The latest piece to catch my eye is the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve. A very distinctive looking piece that combines the Marque’s traditional style and technical complexity with an exceptional level of legibility and unique appeal to create an instant classic.

A Brief History Lesson
For those of you that may be new to the world of high-end watch making it is worthwhile touching on Vacheron Constantin’s history so that you appreciate just who we are dealing with here. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and commenced on a journey of stylistic exploration.

Subtle Yet Shapely
Presented in a tonneau or “barrel” shape case, this is a style that was first explored by Vacheron Constantin back in 1912. Throughout the years this unique case design has seen several variations to its basic shape, at times elongated, curved, embellished or pared down according to the inspiration of the moment. This is the true genius of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, the subtlety with which the brand shapes its pieces, at times almost imperceptible to the casual observer and at the same time mind blowing to the seasoned enthusiast.

A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. Be warned though, the case size is very generous at 39mm x 49mm and as such will not suit all wrists. Yet it is this same size that allows for the outstanding legibility of the borderline complex dial.

Believe me though, with a dial this stunning, you will want to be able to fully appreciate even the finest of touches. Beautifully adorned with five different finishes, the level of highly skilled craftsmanship involved would be almost unthinkable from any one else. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered.

The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white.

As the finishing touch on a wonderfully subdued dial the moon-phase display presents an intelligent blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanized base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.

Keeping It In-House
Animating this refined masterpiece is the manual-winding 1410 calibre developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin. In recognition of its heritage it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, an indication reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing.

In addition to hour and minute hands, the Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Available in a choice of 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold, the satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal and is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.

In case you didn’t glean this from the above I am very big admirer of Vacheron Constantin and their stunning creations. The Malte Moon Phase presents a very attractive option for a discerning individual who is seeking a high-quality piece from a very well-respected watch maker that offers a level of moderate complication without going over the top.

The appeal of this watch is both in its subtlety and its legibility, as well as the exceptional craftsmanship it exhibits. This is a timeless piece that will be passed down through the generations.

For more information see Vacheron Constantin’s official website.

Rolex Daytona Series 2 And 3 By Project X Designs

Admittedly I am not the biggest Rolex fan and to be perfectly honest there are a number of other brands out there that I would probably be more inclined towards. Having said that, the Rolex Daytona has always, and will always have, a special place in my heart and hopefully one day on my wrist! As such I cannot deny that my curiosity was piqued then when I heard about Project X Design’s take on this timeless classic.

Project X Designs
In a similar vein to Bamford & Sons, Projext X Designs offers both bespoke and limited edition watches, with the latter being created in highly limited runs of just 24 watches which will not be repeated once sold out. Most recently the company has released the Series 2 and 3 Limited Edition Rolex Daytonas which will soon be followed by the release of the Series 2 and 3 Limited Edition Submariners (apparently Series 1 is quite popular with Mr Bond himself Daniel Craig, although he’s supposed to be an Omega man, but that’s another story entirely!).

Series 2
Highly reflective of current trends the Series 2 (pictured above) appears to be the more customized of the two editions, having received the full PVD treatment. I must admit it is quite a stunning piece, if lacking somewhat in creativity, and the red highlights provide an excellent contrast. The rear has also been fitted with a sapphire exhibition case back so that the wearer can peer in at the inner workings of the superb Rolex movement.

Series 3
Series 3 is somewhat a more subdued affair and non-enthusiasts may be forgiven for not realizing that this is a customized piece. Whilst it also looks quite nice with its monochrome design, brushed case finish, carbon coated bezel and white chronograph hand vaguely reminisce of the iconic ‘Paul Newman’ Rolex Daytonas of the 1970s, in my opinion you’re better of with Series 2. The reason being that if you are going to go the extra effort and pay the additional cost to acquire a limited edition piece you might as well get one that people realize has actually been customized! Otherwise you’re better investing in an original.

The Final Word
As far as customized Rolexes go these two are certainly quite nice. They have maintained enough of the watch’s original character that they are easily recognizable and the quality of the work is excellent. Personally I probably would not wear either simply because I am still not convinced about paying a premium for a customized luxury watch you have already paid a premium for in its original form and because I feel that I feel these pieces lose a certain amount of credibility once they are customized.

Nonetheless, I can still recognise and appreciate the quality of the finish on these pieces although I do wonder what it does to the re-sale value?

For more information check out the official website.


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Girard-Perregaux Ww.Tc Tourbillon – Sensationally Practical

Often high-horology pieces, whilst exceptionally beautiful, are not always practical to be worn on a regular basis. Fortunately though, this does not necessarily have to be the case. Renowned for their superior skill and craftsmanship the ww.tc Tourbillon from Girard-Perregaux successfully combines two of the watchmaker’s most iconic hallmarks, the world time function and the emblematic Tourbillon with three gold Bridges.

This is, as the brand proudly proclaims, an expression of Girard-Perregaux’s savoir faire in crafting superb Haute Horlogerie timepieces. In our opinion, it is also a timepiece that has been designed to be worn.

Practical In Nature…
The ww.tc from Girard-Perregaux has become a much admired and cherished piece, with several variations of the original being made, including the infamous ww.tc Financial which indicates the global stock market trading times. With its established style and traditional design, the watch displays the practical world time function, which allows the wearer to easily read the time simultaneously in all 24 time zones with just a glance at the stunning dial.

The piece also features a Day and Night indicator so that you know whether its morning or afternoon in London as well as small second indicator at 6 o’clock.

Exceptional In Design
However, it is not just about practical usability. You see, the clean dial of the ww.tc Tourbillion hides a breathtakingly beautiful secret of its own. The unmistakably Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with its iconic gold bridges is only visible through the case back, making it a very personal and understated complication. This is almost a shame given the stunning visual appeal of this movement, but at the same time it makes this exceptional piece of high horology a very real and practical option for everyday wear.

The manual wound movement is simply spectacular, paying homage to its historical roots. In 1884, Constant Girard-Perregaux applied for a patent from the United States Patent Office to provide protection to the movement he had created, which was designed with three parallel arrow-like bridges. At this time this was a completely unheard of concept in the world of watch-making – the movement was considered to represent not simply a technical and functional part of a timepiece – it was also a design feature. In 1889, this Tourbillon with three Gold Bridges received a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition.

As such, the rich heritage of the piece is self-evident. The attention to detail required to construct a Tourbillon of this level of sophistication is almost unfathomable. In total it is assembled from 72 components, all of them required to fit into a diameter of just one centimeter. The trademark three bridges which adorn the movement are hollowed out and painstakingly hand-polished to achieve an incomparable finish. A task which takes Girard-Perregaux’s master watchmakers an astonishing seven days to complete!

The ww.tc Tourbillon from Girard-Perregaux represents the successful marriage of practicality with high-horology. Complex enough to delight even the most seasoned of enthusiast but at the same time sensible enough to be worn everyday this piece guarantees the proud owner illimitable satisfaction. As Girard-Perregaux’s marketing campaign suggests, it has certainly been worth the wait.

See the official Girard-Perregaux website here.


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Dunhill Classic Versus Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Big Date – Take A Second Look

Recently the manifestation of two unrelated events provided the catalyst that triggered this article. Firstly, the arrival of my new weekend watch, the German made Vortex by Dievas courtesy of Gnomon Watches. And secondly, Ben Clymer, a good friend of The Watch Lounge, and the chief editor over at Hodinkee drawing my attention to the relatively new ‘Classic’ watch from Dunhill, which was announced earlier this year.

The purpose of this article, quite simply put, is to let you know about a brand that you may have possibly never heard of before and to subtlety hint at the benefits of looking past the fancy marketing campaigns to discover true value.

What Are You Buying?
Now before I get too carried away, I think it’s important to state that I am actually quite a fan of Dunhill as a brand and admire a lot of the products they have released. The new Classic watch is certainly no exception in this regard. Powered by an automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 896 movement and blessed with timeless good looks it would make an exemplary addition to anyone’s collection. So far, so good, right?

The main problem I have is this: Dunhill is not a watchmaker.

Yes, the Classic is powered by a very respectable Swiss Made movement and it does look quite nice, but consider this; the stainless steel version will run you just over $5,000 and you can forget about getting change from $10,000 for the rose gold version. So what are you actually paying for? The brand or the watch?

Keep that in mind as you prepare to meet (possibly for the first time) German watch maker Mühle-Glashütte.

Take A Second Look
The watch I’ve chosen to introduce you to today is the Teutonia Big Date (pictured above), however, please be advised that this is simply one piece in a rather impressive range. This is not a new watch by any stretch of the imagination but thanks to its classic style you could be forgiven for thinking it was released to the market yesterday. Before I go into too much more detail though, I think a little background on the brand itself is required to help reinforce my above point about Dunhill not actually being a watchmaker.

Mühle-Glashütte’s watch making heritage can be traced back as far 135 years ago when the great-grandfather of the current owner Hans-Jürgen Mühle built and sold measuring instruments for the local clock manufacturers. Hans Mühle, his grandson, found his way back into measurement engineering after 1945, but was dispossessed as part of East German collectivisation. It was not until after the fall of the Wall, in 1994, that the company returned into the ownership of the family, who envisaged a promising market in the manufacture and marketing of ship’s clocks and ship’s clock systems – hence the name ‘Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte’.

The production of high-precision wrist-watches was added later. This decision proved extremely successful – in fact, so much so that this branch of business has turned into Mühle-Glashütte’s core business. Today Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte has been in business for over ten years.

In my opinion the value of this heritage cannot be discounted, you are not just buying a watch, you are buying a story.

Now, back to the actual watch itself. As the name suggests the Teutonia features a big date display just under 12 o’clock, as well as a seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock similar to the Dunhill Classic. The watch is also powered by a reputable (albeit modified) Swiss Automatic Movement, the Mühle ETA 2892-A2.

As far as aesthetics go the Teutonia and the Classic are very similar. Mühle-Glashütte’s offering at 41mm is slightly larger than Dunhill’s 38mm, but still well within the realms of respectable sizing for a watch of this style. Both pieces feature beautifully finished dials, polished stainless steel cases and attractive leather straps.

Here’s the kicker, though. The Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Big Date will only set you back $3,140 from Gnomon Watches.

Yes, arguably the Dunhill Classic does feature the more highly prized Calibre 896 from JLC but for the money they are asking you could actually just buy a very similar styled Jaeger Le-Coultre, which in my opinion would be a far better option.

The Final Word
The purpose of this article was not so much to single out Dunhill for criticism but rather to bring to your attention the fact that there a number of exceptional watch makers out there, who may not presently be on your radar, but definitely should be. I have personally dealt with Gnomon Watches several times before and the only thing I would rate higher than their service (which is outstanding by the way) is their surprisingly unique selection of brands.

Remember, just because you’ve never heard of a brand before doesn’t mean that it’s not worth a second look. You never know what you might discover when you look past the big marketing budgets.


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