Part 1: History of Omega Observatory Trials and Precision Records

Part 1: History of Omega Observatory Trials and Precision Records 

 

Competition breeds excellence

During the late 19th and early 20th century, manufacturers and their master watchmakers expended significant amounts of time and resources in preparation for Observatory trials held throughout Europe. Unlike today's annual watch fairs, these events were not intended to showcase new products. Instead the Observatory trials focused on the science of Chronometry and the ability to make chronometers measure time precisely.

Geneva observatory trials were exclusive for companies in the Canton of Geneva, whilst Neuenburg (French: Neuchâtel) competitions were open to all manufacturers. That is why Omega and Longines set up branches in Geneva – they wanted to take part in prestigious Geneva competitions. Geneva Observatory results are recorded under Omega Genève SA.

These trials were rigorous and they were the most exacting for the watch industry. The precision controls from the Observatories pushed everybody involved in the manufacturing process to achieve perfection because they were based solely on scientific and technical standards. Only timing mechanisms of proven design, perfect technical finish and expert regulation were chosen and given a chance to compete. After 44 days of testing with 5-positional and 3-temperature changes, the most precise chronometer won immense publicity for its manufacturer and acclaim among its peers in the horological community. Only movements were supplied for testing, as still practiced with COSC testing today. Movements were set in aluminum or wooden transport cases and fixed in square blocks for easy positional timing. The crown/stem were recessed in the transport cases so that they could be placed in any required position.

   

The Observatory trials were the "crown jewels" of Chronometry. The associated financial benefits gained by marketing these timing triumphs attracted large manufacturers as well as independent professional watchmakers throughout Europe. Even Japan was successfully represented by Seiko in some of these trials in the 1960s. Interestingly, only Patek Philippe and Omega participated every year in the Observatory trials.  

Omega's performances at these competitions garnered the company a reputation of precision and innovation.  

Following their repeated success in observatory trials, Omega utilized their expertise in COSC certified models until they headed the annual list of certified chronometers. For more than a decade (1958 – 1969), Omega was by far the largest manufacturer of COSC chronometers – mainly with their famous Constellation models. Never satisfied with their past achievements, Omega's quest for precision continues today with their development and incorporation of the co-axial escapement and adjustable inertial mass balance. 

Figure 1: Advertisement of Kew-Teddington 1936 World Precision Record © Omega SA

   

"Omega – Exact time for life"

The company's slogan back in 1931, "Omega – Exact time for life", was not a marketing scheme but fact based on Omega's historical performance at Observatory trials. Omega's early prowess in designing and regulating timing movements was made possible by the company's incorporation of new chronometric innovations. The refinement of the Swiss straight lever escapement and the development of the Guillaume balance allowed smaller and more durable pocket watch movements to reproduce the accuracy of much larger marine chronometers. Omega's 19''' caliber pocket watch chronometer incorporated these technical improvements and coupled with the expert fine tuning by Albert Willemin, Omega's first "regleur de précision", attained the highest rating at the Neuenburg (Neuchatel in French) Observatory trials. In1919, Omega repeated this feat again when the 21''' caliber won the First Prize at the Neuenburg Observatory competition. After slight modification, this movement became Omega's famous Caliber 47.7. In 1925, a Cal. 47.7 regulated by Gottlob Ith won First Prize with 95.9 out of 100 points at Kew-Teddington Observatory trials. 

Figure 2: Cal. 47.7 © Omega SA

 

   

Figure 3: Gottlob Ith (Omega regleur de précision 1920 – 1956) © Omega SA

   

Further refinements of this movement and expert regulation by Alfred Jaccard allowed Omega to break precision records at the Geneva Observatory in 1931. By winning First Prize in all 6 categories of these trials, Omega's prowess as a precision timing company was assured and it was chosen as the official timekeeper for the U.S. Olympic Games in 1932. This was the first time that a single company was entrusted with this important task. The Cal. 47.7 achieved near perfection in 1936 when it scored 97.8 points of 100, a precision record which has never been broken. 

Figure 4: Alfred Jaccard (Omega regleur de précision 1929 – 1953) © Omega SA
World Record Breaker 1933 & 1936

In 1941, Neuchâtel had a wristwatch chronometer category of 34mm maximum size. This was reduced to 30mm in 1948 to match the Geneva Category D with and added surface area limitation for shaped calibers of 707 sq.mm. In 1944, Geneva added a Category D to include timing movements less than 30mm in diameter. However, Omega was already five years ahead of their time. Applying experience gained from the observatory trials with pocket watch movements, Omega had designed and created the superlative Cal. 30mm for commercial use in wristwatches in 1939. Exceptional in regulatory performance and durability, the Cal. 30mm set a new precision record at Kew-Teddington at its first outing in 1940. Omega even beat Rolex, which at that time was a chronometer specialist rather than a mass manufacturer. At the Geneva Observatory Category D competition in 1945, the legendary Alfred Jaccard regulated an Omega Cal. 30mm to 1st Place, besting five watches from Patek Philippe and one from Rolex. Many companies did not have large wristwatch movements and had to outsource ebauches for the observatory trials – like the Peseux 260 – as used by Ulysse Nardin and Movado. 

Figure 5: Results of Test Watch in 1936 © Omega SA

                                     

Despite the success of the Cal. 30mm, Omega sought to improve the accuracy of their wristwatches by applying existing horological technology in novel ways throughout the 1940's. Over a century earlier, the Régulateur à Tourbillon had been invented in 1801 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. The purpose of the tourbillon is to compensate for the negative influence of the gravity and to eliminate any residual effects caused by out-of balance forces on the escapement of a watch. Temperature compensation and especially secondary temperature error were valued highly in the observatory requirements. The importance of this may be surmised from the use of a split bimetallic Guillaume balance despite the availability of self-compensating hairsprings. Split bimetallic balance wheels are a bit tricky because the two opposed parts of the rim tend to become out-of-poise in certain areas – a tourbillon would be ideally suited to solve this problem.

In preparation for the Observatory trials, Omega's technicians sought to miniaturize the tourbillon for a small series of wristwatch movements. In 1947 Omega became the second watchmaker ever to build a tourbillon wristwatch. Omega's archive credits Lip, a French watchmaker, for building a rectangular tourbillon wristwatch prototype earlier in 1930. Our research revealed that there were small and potentially wristwatch-sized movements made as one-off pieces e.g. James Pellaton's 10 ½''' (23.7mm) or Robert Charrue's smaller 8 ¾''' movement. Girard-Perregaux made a 30mm three-bridge tourbillon with detent escapement in 1890 – tourbillon made by Ernest Guinand. The Lip wristwatch was actually Lip-ebauche based but constructed by Edouard Belin of the Besancon Watchmaking School. 

Figure 6: Cal. 30I Tourbillon © Omega SA

Omega entrusted the design of their tourbillon with a cage revolving every 7-½ minutes to Marcel Vuilleumier, Director of the Watchmaking School at Le Sentier. Notably, Vuillemier was also the creator of such wondrous things as a double balance, differential tourbillon! Each Omega tourbillon was handcrafted by Jean-Pierre Mathey-Claudet the prototype builder, and regulated by Alfred Jaccard. Omega made a small series of 12 movements (serial numbers 10595933-10595944). Many of these were sent to competitions in Geneva and Neuenburg during 1947-1951. Despite high expectations the initial results for these tourbillons at competition were not as good as the Cal. 30mm. Finally there was victory in 1950 when an Omega tourbillon achieved 1st place followed by an Omega Cal. 30mm in 2nd place and a Patek Philippe in 3rd place.

Because a consumer market for tourbillon wristwatches did not exist, those tourbillon movements were only designed for observatory competitions and Omega stopped production after the initial series. In 1987, seven movements from that 1947 series of chronometers had their movements entirely refurbished, rhodium-plated, angled, polished, decorated with 'Côtes de Genève' and fitted into either an 18K gold or sterling silver case with transparent back and a push-button for time-setting. This setting button was protected by an 'olivette'. The experience acquired by the regulation and fine-tuning of these watches, however, helped Omega achieve new precision records at Observatory trials and dramatically improved the accuracy of their consumer model wristwatches. 

Figure 7: Jean-Pierre Matthey-Claudet, prototype builder of Cal. 30 mm & Cal. 30I tourbillon © Omega SA

Figure 8: Advertisement of the Precision Record (1950) with Tourbillon Cal.30I © Omega SA

The link between the past and the future

In preparation for their 100th anniversary celebration, Omega looked into their past for a project that would serve as a fitting tribute to this special milestone. The watchmakers were inspired by the company's historical successes with tourbillons but needed to differentiate the project from existing tourbillon wristwatches on the market. Remaining true to Omega's spirit of innovation and precision, an ingenious team of engineers designed a completely new movement, creating the world's first central tourbillon wristwatch in 1994. With its whirling-dervish tourbillon cage, pulsing and dancing in the center of the wristwatch and its outwardly extending hour and minute hands, one cannot help but imagine that the watch is alive. It conjures up an image of a tiny mechanical spirit eager to share its story and secrets. The complete evolution of this engineering marvel, from conception to production, will be revealed in this multi-part series of articles on the 'Omega Central Tourbillon'.

Important reference dates for the Omega precision records:

1894: Creation of the famous 19''' caliber named Omega.
The company is renamed after this famous caliber in 1848 from 'Louis Brandt et Frères'.
Omega participates for the first time at observatory trials in Neuenburg (French: Neuchâtel).
Albert Willemin, the first "regleur de précision" at Omega, regulated the movement.
1911: Albert Willemin leaves Omega and is replaced by Werner-A. Dubois.
1918: Werner-A. Dubois leaves Omega (he joins Paul Ditisheim) and is replaced by Carl Billeter.
1919: 1st Prize at observatory trials in Neuenburg with a 21''' caliber.
This caliber was slightly modified to become the famous Cal. 47.7 later.
1920: Gottlob Ith replaces Carl Billeter.
1922: Omega participates for the first time at observatory trials in Kew-Teddington (achieved 3rd place).
1925: 1st place at observatory trials in Kew-Teddington with a Cal. 47.7
(95.9 of 100 points ex aequo with Ulysse Nardin); Gottlob Ith regulated the movement.
1929: Alfred Jaccard joined Omega.
1930: 1st place at observatory trials in Kew-Teddington (96.3 of 100 points ex aequo with Movado);
Alfred Jaccard regulated the movement.
1931: Omega achieves 1st place in all 6 categories at observatory trials in Geneva;
Alfred Jaccard regulated the movements.
1933: A Cal. 47.7 regulated by Alfred Jaccard achieved the precision record at observatory trials.
Kew-Teddington; 97.4 points of 100.
1936: Another Cal. 47.7 regulated by Alfred Jaccard achieved the precision record of 97.8 points of 100.
Kew-Teddington. This record was never broken even until 1965.
1937: 1st place at Kew-Teddington with 97.3 points.
1938: 1st place at Kew-Teddington with 97.7 points.
1939: Creation of the Cal. 30 (the first 30mm caliber).
1940: 1st place with Cal. 30mm at Kew Teddington; movement regulated by Alfred Jaccard.
1943: Launch of the 30mm caliber 30T2 (first rose gold-plated Omega movement).
1945: 1st place with 30mm caliber at the observatory in Geneva; movement regulated by Alfred Jaccard.
1947: Creation of the first Omega tourbillon wristwatch movement (Cal. 30I).
Specially developed for the observatory trials (only 12 pieces made).
1948: 1st place at observatory trial in Neuenburg for 30mm caliber.
1st time non-Swiss companies allowed to take part.
1950: 1st place for tourbillon Cal. 30I at Geneva Trials; regulated by Alfred Jaccard.
Joseph Ory joins precision timing department after being Trainer to women timers (regleuse).
1951/2:1st place at the observatory trials in Geneva.
1953: Alfred Jaccard died.
1954: New record in Geneva by Gottlob Ith.
1955: Two new records at Neuenburg by Gottlob Ith.
1956: Gottlob Ith died aged 66 years; Joseph Ory takes over as head of department.
Two 1st places at observatory trials in Neuenburg.
1958: New record in Geneva movements regulated by Joseph Ory.
Creation of competition Cal. 30GD – a 30mm caliber with better mainspring and higher frequency
(25,200 instead of 18,000 vph).
This unusual frequency is used again today for the latest Co-Axial movements. 

Figure 9: Cal. 30GD © Omega SA

 

1959: Two records in Neuenburg and one new record in Geneva; movements regulated by Joseph Ory.
1960: One new record in Geneva, One new record in Neuenburg and also 1st place in Neuenburg.
Movements regulated by Joseph Ory.
1961: Two new records in Geneva by Joseph Ory.
The first four places for the 'single pieces' category in Geneva are occupied by Omega.
1962: 2nd, 3rd and 4th places for Omega, which decides to create a new caliber.
1963: Two 1st places in Geneva and Neuenburg.
Movements regulated by Joseph Ory and André Brielmann. 

Figure 10: Joseph Ory (right) and André Brielmann © Omega SA

 

1964: New record in Neuchatel by Joseph Ory.
1965: Omega occupies 2nd to 9th places (1st place goes to Zenith).
Pierre Chopard was tasked to create a new Caliber for the observatory trials.
Cal. E11 had a very unusual shape to take a very big barrel and its mainspring.
It never entered competition because quartz movements arrived in 1967. 

Figure 11: Cal. E11 © Omega SA

   

1966: Three new records for Omega (two in Neuenburg, one in Geneva).
1967: Quartz movement Beta 1 (later Beta 21) included in the same category as mechanical movements.
Last year that Omega competed with mechanical movements as "old technology" not comparable
with quartz. 

Figure 12: Rating certificate obtained for the Cal. 30 mm (1967) © Omega SA

 

1968: Omega enters with a tuning fork movement regulated by André Brielmann for a new record.
1969: Two new records for the tuning fork movements regulated by André Brielmann.
1970: One new record for the tuning fork movement regulated by André Brielmann.
1971: Two new records for the tuning fork movements regulated by André Brielmann.
1972: André Brielmann retires.

To be continued in 'Omega Central Tourbillon – Part 2…

  

Thank You 

http://omega.watchprosite.com/ 

Part 2: History of Development

Part 2: History of Development 

 

We reviewed the History of Omega Observatory Trials and Precision Records in Part 1 of this series. This installment reviews the 'History of Development' of the Omega Central Tourbillon.

Background

Over the past 100 years the horological landscape has changed dramatically as consumer demand shifted from pocket watches to wristwatches.  In 1986, Audemars Piguet introduced the first production automatic tourbillon wristwatch and it was considered a technical marvel.  Even as demand for tourbillon mechanisms grew, they remained rare masterpieces of elite watchmakers due to the time required to expertly finish and meticulously assemble each tourbillon.
 

In recent years, watchmaking has evolved by fully incorporating computer-aided design (CAD) and computer numerical control (CNC) milling into the manufacturing process.  As a result of this modernization companies with little horological experience have been able to flood the market with new tourbillon wristwatches.  Many of these timepieces iterate simple interpretations of tourbillon or karrousel designs without new technical innovations.  Omega's version of the tourbillon wristwatch, however, merits special attention.

Celebration
 

Omega decided to demonstrate their watchmaking prowess to celebrate their 100th anniversary in 1994 by producing a special "Haut de Gamme" timepiece. The zenith of the watchmaker's regulating art was a tourbillon but not just any tourbillon; it had to be immediately recognized as an Omega.  

Therefore the decision to produce a central Tourbillon was taken. The project was codenamed Project 33 (P33) and begun in 1991 under the direction of Mr. Moritz Grimm and Mr. André Beyner who developed the movement together with the Omega technical office.
 

[PuristS' Trivia] Mr. Beyner named his major projects using the odd year numbers starting from his birth year (1927) – P33 was his 4th major project.

Omega's technical office faced many hurdles trying to develop the movement for P33.  It was not an easy task to relocate the escapement of a timepiece to the centre of the dial. By convention the hour and minutes hands usually originate from the center of a wristwatch.  This traditional display facilitates time telling but limits a watch's mechanical design.  Given the paucity of space within a watchcase and the engineering principles involved, the escapement and tourbillon cage is usually located at the periphery of a watch movement.

Faced with the daunting task of bringing to life a new and unique tourbillon caliber in less than 3 years, Messrs. Grimm and Beyner searched through Omega archives for ideas.  The team found their inspiration in three of Omega's past achievements:  the "Les Montres des Sables" pocket watches, the Dinosaure, and Omega's famous 30mm automatic movement.  The design highlights of these watches formed the basis of P33:

Tourbillon in the centre:
   

In 1985, new technical and symbolically artistic exploits of Dominique Loiseau, the "Les Montres des Sables" were presented at the Basel Fair. The so-called "Sand Watches" was a collection of six uniquely complicated pocket watches built around a mobile, floating tourbillon cage, placed in the centre of an extra-flat movement, all sculpted and decorated with sand dune themes symbolising desert civilizations. These watches are now in the Omega Museum. 

                         Figure 1: Set of "Les Montres des Sables" © Omega SA  

                                          

Figure 2: "Les Montres des Sables" movement © Omega SA

The magic or mystery hands:
   

The use of classic hands was impossible because the central tourbillon occupies the place where hands are normally fixed. The solution was 'hands' that are etched on sapphire discs. In 1980, the "Dinosaure" watch (cal.1355), an ultra-slim analogue quartz model (1.48 mm) was introduced with the movement integrated in the case back and a transparent dial on which the hands appeared to float.
 

[PuristS' Trivia] Prototypes and some collectors' pieces were even thinner at 1.35 mm but the movements kept breaking during testing.   

Figure 3: "Dinosaure" movement © Omega SA

  

Figure 4: "Dinosaure" watches © Omega SA

The movement diameter:
   

In tribute to the famous timing results of the 30mm calibres and of the first Omega Tourbillon (calibre 30I), the new Central Tourbillon movement also has a diameter of 30mm. 

Figure 5: Cal. 30I Record Holder 10595933 © Omega SA

Figure 6: Disassembled tourbillon cage Cal. 30I © Omega SA

  

Technical Challenges

Flying Tourbillon:
   

Omega decided to build a flying tourbillon to reveal the full beauty of the tourbillon and for the proud owner to observe the escapement at the work.
 

The flying tourbillon was invented by Alfred Helwig in the 1920's and is a further development of the classic Breguet construction. Omega uses a special developed ball bearing with 5 ruby balls. To reduce the play in the cage, several sizes of ruby balls could be selected in production; the variation between consecutive 'sizes' was only 2 microns.

  

Figure 7: Bridge screw, ruby balls and stud screw © Omega SA

  

Figure 8: Case and Platinum Oscillating Rotor © Omega SA

The case is of 'monocoque' construction; there is no case back on the watch – the encasement is done from the front.

Figure 9: Sapphire Discs © Omega SA

The two sapphire discs indicated the time; so the case is a functional part of the movement. The hands are not mounted on the movement but into the case.

 
The final solution devised by the Omega's technical department was elegant, sophisticated, and unique.  The gearing for the plates (the clockworks) was moved to the periphery of the dials into the sides of the watchcase.  This mechanism was modified from the "Montres de Sables" pocket watches.

Since the traditional position for the center cannon-pinion and time indicators was now occupied by the tourbillon, engineers updated the ingenious display mechanism from the Omega Dinosaur.  The hands of the central tourbillon were etched onto thin sapphire crystal disks that rotated on top of one another to display the minutes and hours.

The escapement was constructed with a solid gold balance wheel and a blued Breguet balance spring with a Phillips overcoil.  The seconds' indicator was shaped into the Omega symbol and incorporated onto the tourbillon regulator as well.  By using a cage constructed of lightweight titanium, the 41-component tourbillon assembly only weighed 0.46 grams; the balance wheel alone weighed 0.20g. The lightweight tourbillon and a platinum rotor mounted directly into the caseback for ideal mass and winding efficiency both contributed to achieve a final power reserve of 45 hours. 

  

Figure 10: Cal. 1170 prototype © Omega SA

The completed automatic central flying tourbillon design consisted of over 320 individual parts and Project 33 was renamed 'caliber 1170'.  Three years of product development transpired before Omega's caliber 1170 was patented and successfully brought to production.  The technical team successfully completed its mission and the watch was presented at the Basel Fair in 1994 to commemorate Omega 100th year anniversary. 

   

Figure 11: Geneva Wave © Omega SA

Putting the Geneva Wave decorations on the main plates

  

Figure 12: Beveling tourbillon cage © Omega SA

Omega spared no expense on the appearance of their commemorative tourbillon.  Cased only in precious metals, the central tourbillon had a solid gold dial with hand guilloche using traditional methods. Some models even had jeweled bezels and bracelets!  Omega created a new 'Haut de Gamme' department specifically for the production of this new timepiece.  Staffed with only two master watchmakers, a total of 39 watches were completed from 1994 to 1998.  This actual number was far less than the anticipated initial production rate.
 

[PuristS' Trivia] The first-generation central tourbillon watches are recognized by the bell-like sound of the oscillating platinum weight that was amplified by the watchcase.  

Figure 13: Omega Central Tourbillon © Omega SA

Figure 14: Jeweled Bezels and Bracelets © Omega SA

  

Figure 15: Jeweled Bezels and Bracelets © Omega SA

Continuing Development History 

Figure 16: Cal. 2600A front © Omega SA

Figure 17: Cal. 2600A back © Omega SA

In 1998, the first modification of the caliber 1170 was made.  To eliminate the rotor noise, the platinum weight was no longer mounted into the caseback but was attached to the backside of the movement employing a slide bearing with two jewels.  This new movement was designated the Cal. 2600A and only twenty were produced from 1998 to 2002.
 

[PuristS' Trivia] A variety of engraving patterns on the Cal.2600A tourbillon base without standardization were used.      

Figure 18: Cal. 2600B © Omega SA

In 2002, a major facelift was done and Omega began to expand its 'Haut de Gamme' department.  Designated caliber 2600B, Omega incorporated a new tourbillon cage and recalculated the Phillips overcoil in the Breguet hairspring used in the escapement.  The monopiece index was replaced by a double-piece index and the 'Omega' sign of the cage was adapted. The movements are assembled and regulated by Omega and then sent to COSC Bienne for the chronometer tests. A new dial design gave an updated look and the hand engraved pattern on the tourbillon base was standardized as a sunburst pattern. A bridge replaced the retaining plate of the intermediate wheel.
 

[PuristS Trivia] Due to its special shape, this bridge is called 'Penguin' within the "Haut de Gamme" department.
 

Cal. 2600B is still in production today(April 2007).   

Figure 19: Cal. 2633A skeleton movement © Omega SA

In 2004, a skeleton version of the Cal. 2600B was presented. The technical characteristics are identical but all bridges and the mainplate are skeletonised and engraved by hand. The skeleton Cal. 2633A is still in production today (April 2007) .
 

[PuristS' Trivia] Engraving pattern on Cal. 2633A is called 'Paving Stone' within Omega.   

Figure 20: Skeleton Omega Central Tourbillon © Omega SA

  

Also in 2004, a 'piece unique' based on the Cal. 2633A but with a Singapore flag on the oscillating weight (Cal. 2634A) was produced.

By 2007, the 'Haut de Gamme' department at Omega is headed by Mr. Cyrano Devanthey and the seven watchmakers produce approximately 50 tourbillon watches per year. Without a doubt, the caliber 2600B has been the most expensive and technically challenging movement to construct in Omega's vast inventory…until now.

In Part 3 of this series, we will present a dissection and analysis of the new Coaxial Central Flying Tourbillon !

More Trivia
All Central Tourbillons:
Have a power reserve of 45 hours.
Have a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 A/h).
Are water-resistant up to 30 m.
Have a solid gold hand guilloche dial (except the skeleton version which has a sapphire dial).
Have a 950 platinum oscillating weight

 

To be continued in 'Omega Central Tourbillon – Part 3…

 

**You Can Find Omega Watches In Amazon.com

Thank You  

http://omega.watchprosite.com/